Alternative to using epoxy primer?

[big stinkie]

Gonna repaint my bike...again. Wife says, "Why are you going to paint your bike again?" I answer,"Because I can!" Anyway, in the past I've used PPG epoxy primer. Works good. But...it's a bit harder to apply (for me,) it needs to sit for a few days before it's cured, and it's real dang hard once it cures - which makes sanding a chore.

Is there another primer you folks would suggest that maybe doesn't need to cure for a few days and is easier to sand? I'm going to squirt it on bare metal, so maybe an etching primer? I'll probably use PPG for potential compatability issues.

This'll be another 1-year paint job, so long lasting durability isn't an immediate issue.

If nothing else looks good, I guess I'll just use the epoxy.

'Preciate all your help.

Andy

 

[John Pierce]

I've used DP40 and while it works well, I don't like the lengthy cure time either. I now use HOK's KP-21 epoxy primer and it works great with either HOK products or PPG basecoat/clearcoat. It will dry in about 6 hours at 70 degrees where you can sand it and adheres to metal very nicely. After it dries it looks just like the DP40 and has that epoxy/elastic type feel to it.

Try it, I bet you'll like it!

good luck,
JP

 

[big stinkie]

JP,

Just might try that. My paint shop sells HOK, too.

I would think that a black primer would be best. I plan on painting it black, and I have a mile and a half of rock road I have to ride before hitting pavement. It's inevitable that I get chips in the paint which exposes the primer. Terrible when ya gotta paint your bike according to th road ya live on...

I hate that rock road. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flame.gif

Andy

 

[tiller2nv]

The HOK epoxy is good. Ive also used a Dupont primer that you just add thinner to, works really well!

 

[rex]

There are a few primers and sealers you can put right over the 2part etch primer (1790 or 91?).Relying on my bad memory there's a K38 or 93? that is a surfacer that doubles as a sealer and one of the 3 NCP270's line is the same way.One or 2 is tintable but none are black.I believe NCS 2000 series will go directly over etch.I want to say it's the 2005 that's black and lays on like a coat of paint,I love this stuff but it isn't cheap.Make sure you get a good 2 coats of black base on for coverage because there is a color difference if you get shy of coverage.Another option since black is cheap is let the DP (90 is black) flash the hour or whatever to topcoat and blow 2 coats of black base on it.Let it sit and wet 600 it down fast.I hate sanding base but I hate sanding DP worse.The HOK stuff is good but I don't think there's a black.

 

[big stinkie]

I like that last idea, too. Since I've got the black DP already, I think I'm gonna use it up and try that black base trick. Once the DP is gone I'll try the HOK stuff.

Thanks again, guys.

Andy

 

[rex]

For those following this after you DP it and black it and sand it you'll have to reblack it with base,the sanding was to get a level surface to build the final finish on.Technically you can go from DP to base and clear but you'll end up with a bit of peel at the end to be sanded anyway and buffed.

 

[Bornhard]

Hok Epoxy is the way to go. 4-6 hours dry time ya ya ya ya.

Hok Epoxy is only in gray, but what'cha need is some HoK Ko-Seal sealer primer to spray over your epoxy after sanding. It comes in white, gray, black, and a metallic color or two. That stuff sands like silk and you can sand it with 400-600 grit to have a really nice surface to spray on.