Another stupid Newbie Question!

M

Mez

Guest
I am getting ready to tear down my bike next week for my 2nd attempt at a stellar paint job. My first attempt turned out very, very good, but not great. I obviuosly want it to be perfect so that when people ask me where I had it painted, they will never believe (which few do now anyway), that I did it myself.
My question concerns sanding between putting on the final coat of clear. I attempted to do this with 1500-2000 paper and then sprayed my final heavy coat of clear and buffed and polished. No matter how much I buffed I see very fine scratches/spider webs all through the paint when in full sun. I have to believe these are trapped under my final coat of clear. Did I do something wrong? Is there a procedure I missed? Is the final coat of clear supposed to "fill" these 2000 scratches?
I am going with a base of black and do not want to have thew same problem as it will be even more noticable than on the graphite metallic base I used previuosly.
Any help?? Thanks in advance. <font color="black"> </font>
 
A

alienboy

Guest
I usually wet sand with 600-800 grit sandpaper THEN spray my last few coats of clear. I then wetsand using 1000, 1500, and sometimes 2000 with wonderfull results.
 
J

Jim

Member
Are you sure it's not under the base coat?Clear will usually fill most imperfections.You really should go with something under 800 grit beteween coats or you could run into adhesion problems.
 
M

Mez

Guest
Thanks for the info, I am pretty sure its not under the base...I took it down to metal and used a sandable primer, then a different primer, then the base which is a dark charcoal metallic. It looked great when I was laying out the flames. My first attempt I did have small scratches under the base from taking it down to metal, thats why I took it back down and used a sandable primer. I dont know why it happened, its on the tank but not on the fenders from what I can tell.
I think I am going to take it back to bare again when I do this next week. I want to shoot it once and be done with it this time. I'm off work and my wife has one of those honey-do vacations planned for me : (
 
M

Mez

Guest
Sure, when I get home from work I will take a pic and attempt to post it on here...like I stated earlier, I can only see it in direct sunlight but I am sure that it will show with the flash as well...thanks again for the help.
 
M

Mez

Guest
Jim, I appreciate the attempt but I cant get a decent photo to show the scratches. I shot it all the way up to 5 meg and at all kinda angles and it just doesnt show up good.
I guess I am gonna do this the old fashioned way again, trial and error : )
Last time I screwed around for 2 weeks! I just want to make sure I got this down right, please let me know..
1) Take it down to metal (again)
2) Use a sandable primer..spray, wetsand, spray, wetsand...800 grit?
3) Tack...shoot the base.
4) Interclear (Optional?)
5) Lay out flames, scuff the interclear if applied inside the lines and spray the flame color.
6) Remove tape and if everything looks ok..
7) Clear...first coat..light...heavier on second and third.
8) Wetsand with 800 grit? Then shoot another coat or two of clear...wetsand with 1500, then 2000...then buff and polish?

Am I correct in my assumptions? THanks again for all the help.
 
R

rex

New member
It's one of 2 things,either you still don't have all the 2000 grit scratches buffed out or your primer shrank which isn't uncommon.When you strip it put 3 coats of primer on,each coat being wet but thin-don't hose it on- and let it flash until dull between coats.Let it dry a day or 2 above 70deg. and sand it with 600 (this isn't lacquer primer right?).As long as you didn't break through to steel you can either base it or seal and base it,again putting it on wet without hosing and allowing flash time.Now you can either clear it and sand with 600 after it dries or intercoat it.If you can't finish the flames and get clear on it in the 24hrs recoat time just let it sit overnight and scuff the intercoat with a grey scotchbrite pad before laying out the flames and finishing.I sand my clear with 600 for recoating but don't use just one coat,use the required 2 or 3 the maker says.If oyu need to buff it 2000 is fine but 1500 will level out a dirtnib quicker,just finish it off with 2000.I'll be scarce for the next week or so but there's many here that can clear up any confusion that usually pops up in my posts.Oh,welcome also.
 
J

Jim

Member
Mez,Here's what I did without problems:Strip to metal,epoxy prime,glaze coat of filler over everything,sand til smooth,reprime,block sand,base,clear,flames,clear.
From metal,Use a good 2k primer,(it doesn't have to be epoxy)
If the metal is straight,put a few good coats,sand the crap out of it until you think you have it,then spray a dust coat of contrasting color primer,sand again to get rid of the contrasting color(it'll show any low spots)Wipe it down with wax and grease remover,2 to 3 coats of base,no need to dust it,just lay it on thin but enough to get coverage(make sure the preveous coat is dry to the touch before you proceed)It also doesn't hurt to use a tack rag between coats.If you think your good enough,layout the flames,If not then shoot 2 coats of intercoat clear,let it dry, scuff the whole thing with 600 or a gray scotchbrite pad,wipe it down,Layout and shoot the flames,if your useing a 2 coat clear,put on 2,(If HOK,spray 3)600-800 grit wetsand the flame edge carefully knocking down most but not all of it,sand the rest of the tank to smooth out any peel,then shoot another decent coat,(if HOK,shoot 2 more)1500-2000 the whole thing,buff and enjoy.Don't forget to seal around the gas bung.This is how I would do it,everyone has thier own process and someone may add thier way too.Good luck and if you have any more questions,don't be afraid to post em.Although I'm not one,there are quite a few pros on the board! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/peace.gif
See,Rex got one in before I was done typing!
 
M

Mez

Guest
Rex, Jim, thanks for the thoughtful input...my $15 bucks has been WELL spent....I will keep you all posted on my progress next week and hopefully be proud of the results...
 
J

Jim

Member
Mez,I learned the hard way too,Good quality materials are a must!proper grit papers,flash times and following mixing instructions are vital to a nice,long lasting paint job.Rex mentioned it in another post,don't paint the whole cap seal area,lay an 1/8in. fineline band on the seal area on the inner side of the circle and seal the paint edge with either the clear nail polish or clearcoat.(don't know if you saw his post)He also seals the petcock which I never thought of doing but sounds like a good idea.Good luck and let us know how it turns out,jim
 
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