B/C over powdercoat?

[BikerJim]

Hello everyone, first post...

I've got an older bike to paint with a hinged tank cap. All these little parts that rub and click into each other. I'm trying to finish in a way that won't delaminate the first time I close the cap, and the rust a week later. If it weren't for a couple previous bangs that need fillerwork I'd just powdercoat the tank.

My thoughts are to powder coat the area right around the tank cap then continue with primer / base / clear over the powdercoat, seems to me that would hold up best for all the rubbing to prevent rust. Here comes the question... how to prep the powder coat to accept urethane primer / base / clear. Or with some fancy masking, apply powder just to the latch and hinge mechanisms, paint everything else. Any thoughts?

-Jimmy

 

[flamepain]

powder coat is very durable but i would think if you can scuff it up with either a scotch bright pad or say 320 grit it will accept primer or base clear with no trouble.i know paint stripper wont touch it so thinners definatly wont.another idea would be to repair the dings with lead.question ? will powder coat stick to lead???. hope this helps but i am only making a guess.i've never done it so i'm talking without validation.good luck.cyas

 

[BikerJim]

There are some strippers that will cut it quickly, but for the most part, it's very resistant to almost everything. I haven't tried lead to repair the dents, I know the powder coat would take to it, but I'm not sure, as I thought the melting point was in the 400-500 range (?) and I've got to bake the parts at 400. You've got to try powder coating sometime, it's almost foolproof, and well almost bulletproof. I've buffed small pieces before, had the buffer kick it out of my hands, bounce of the floor, and not have a mark one them...try that with paint. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll scuff and paint on a test panel. Always seems like if I'm unsure of paint sticking okay I'll slap on a piece of green tape and give it a rip. Thanks again.