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Mitchb71
Guest
Does anyone know the best way to go about doing this. Ive seen it done, and im just curious exactly how to do it.
Doing it's easy but adhesion is a serious problem.Ultra motorcycles came this way for a while but I believe stopped.All you do is scratch some kind of pattern in the metal and tape off some metal before you put down color.Hell,if you candy over the bare metal it looks cool.The problem is base and clear don't stick to bare metal period.It will stay as long as there are scratches and the clear has a 'wrap' of the surface,but a nick over the bare steel will start it peeling among other problems.I've searched for years for a good clear sealer to do this with some kind of reliability,but I haven't seen one yet.
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Mitchb71
Guest
Well the tank i have is already painted and cleared. So im going to go all the way to the metal. I won't have an adhesion problem but i was curious how to get to that point and without rust.
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shaunboy
Guest
I THINK YOU NEED TO CLARIFY WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN ABOUT RUST.
IF THERE IS ALREADY RUST IN THE TANK ,THE REPAIR THAT YOU HAVE TO MAKE , WILL BE SEEN IF YOU TRY AND CLEAR THE BARE STEEL.
MAYBE IF YOU WANT TO TO GET A TRANSPARENT TINTED CLEAR ON STEEL ,FIND OUT HOW THE MANUFACTURERES DO IT ON ALLOY WHEELS
I GUESS THIS MAYBE VERY DIFFUCULTLY DONE WITHOUT HIGH TEC EQUIPMENT
WHAT DO YOU MEAN ABOUT RUST.
IF THERE IS ALREADY RUST IN THE TANK ,THE REPAIR THAT YOU HAVE TO MAKE , WILL BE SEEN IF YOU TRY AND CLEAR THE BARE STEEL.
MAYBE IF YOU WANT TO TO GET A TRANSPARENT TINTED CLEAR ON STEEL ,FIND OUT HOW THE MANUFACTURERES DO IT ON ALLOY WHEELS
I GUESS THIS MAYBE VERY DIFFUCULTLY DONE WITHOUT HIGH TEC EQUIPMENT
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tooter
Guest
dont no if it will work but dianamont use to make a tranperent sealer i think its ds30 it would seal up 180 scrathes but i dont no if it would last like a etching primer
Pretty much everyone makes a clear sealer,but sealers aren't designed to go over bare steel.If you bust an edge they can usually handle that,but large areas of bare metal are taboo.If you really want to do it,after it's stripped and the desired pattern is etched in the metal,use the clear sealer or topcoat clear immediately to seal it from humidity.Then mask off whatever and put color where you want.I strongly advise against doing it,but it's up to you.
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Shawn
Guest
what about some type of clear powder coating? This is what is on the wheels, right?
Shawn
Shawn
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kevsLX
Guest
There is a clear powder coat out there, but the examples I've seen always made the part look a little cloudy.
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shaunboy
Guest
MITCH IN OTHER WORDS YOU SHOULD FORGET ABOUT CLEARING BARE STEEL .
THIS TECHNOLOGY HAS NOT YET BEEN MADE YET.
THIS TECHNOLOGY HAS NOT YET BEEN MADE YET.
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flowb417
Guest
There is a Clear powder coat available. My buddy Rich owns a powdercoating shop in Bradenton Florida, T&T powdercoating. The stuff I've seen is really nice. If anyone wants to check this stuff out call him up-941-752-3995. HE also did a valve cover of mine in near chrome. A powder thats looks like chrome plating or Polished aluminum . nice.
By the way anybody have a BIG shop fan for sale? way less the Home depot?
By the way anybody have a BIG shop fan for sale? way less the Home depot?
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RDHicks
Guest
You can use a clear powder coat on bare metal. Its the hot thing on BMX bikes. They blue the welds with heat then powder coat.
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dan green
Guest
CLEARING BARE STEEL IS EASY WITH SOME PRACTICE. A U.M.C PAINTER TOLD ME THE HOW TO AT A SHOW LAST YEAR. HE TAKES THE FENDER AND ACID WASHES IT. TO DO THIS, TAKE IT TO BLUE BEACON TRUCK WASH AND HAVE IT (BRIGHTENED) AS THEY CALL IT. THEN SCRIBE YOUR LINES WITH A SCOTCH BRIGHT PAD ON A SMALL 90 DEGREE GRINDER. uSE PPG
WASH PRIMER. MIX IT 1 TO 1 WITH 75% REDUCER.ITS LIKE WATER SO BE CAREFUL.
STAND BACK 6 FEET FROM TO SURFACE AND AT 70 PSI ''MIST IT'' SO LIGHT THAT IT DONT LOOK LIKE YOU DID ANY THING. LET IT DRY FOR A HOUR AND LAY ON THE CANDY. IF YOU PUT ON TOO MUCH IT WIL HAVE A YELLOW TINT,THEN YOU NEED TO WIPE IT DOWN WITHREDUCER AND TRY AGAN. I DO IT 3 OR 4 TIMES BEFORE ITS JUST RIGHT. FOLLOW NORMAL PROCEEDURES LIKE WAX AND GREESE REMOVER AND YOUL BE SET. IF IT ALUMINUM, THEN YOUL NEED TO ACID WASH IT BEFOR AND AFTER YOU SCRIBE YOUR DESIGN IN THE METAL. IT CAN BEE DONE AND LAST A LONG TIME. I DID ONE 4 YRS AGO AND IT LOOKS LIKE NEW. JUST PRACTICE ON A JUNK PEICE FIRST!
WASH PRIMER. MIX IT 1 TO 1 WITH 75% REDUCER.ITS LIKE WATER SO BE CAREFUL.
STAND BACK 6 FEET FROM TO SURFACE AND AT 70 PSI ''MIST IT'' SO LIGHT THAT IT DONT LOOK LIKE YOU DID ANY THING. LET IT DRY FOR A HOUR AND LAY ON THE CANDY. IF YOU PUT ON TOO MUCH IT WIL HAVE A YELLOW TINT,THEN YOU NEED TO WIPE IT DOWN WITHREDUCER AND TRY AGAN. I DO IT 3 OR 4 TIMES BEFORE ITS JUST RIGHT. FOLLOW NORMAL PROCEEDURES LIKE WAX AND GREESE REMOVER AND YOUL BE SET. IF IT ALUMINUM, THEN YOUL NEED TO ACID WASH IT BEFOR AND AFTER YOU SCRIBE YOUR DESIGN IN THE METAL. IT CAN BEE DONE AND LAST A LONG TIME. I DID ONE 4 YRS AGO AND IT LOOKS LIKE NEW. JUST PRACTICE ON A JUNK PEICE FIRST!
The concept sounds sound but I'd hate to do an adhesion test.First you're laying the wash primer on dry enough to be a problem (1791/92?).Then you have the problem that any base isn't a compatible topcoat,let alone any clear without a sealer laid down first.I'm not saying it wont work because I'm sure there's a way like this around it,but it's a marginal fix.
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dan green
Guest
I DID 5 BIKES LIKE THIS BEFORE I GOT GOOD RESULTS. THE TRICK IS IN THE ACID WASH. IT PULLS 100% OF CONTAMANITS FROM THE SURFACE KEEPING IT CLEAN FROM THEN TO THE BOOTH IS THE HARD PART. THE DRYNESS OF THE PRIMER SOUNDS CRAZY BUT WITH THE METAL BEING SO CLEAN IT BITES WELL. TH REAL SECREAT TO IT IS PUTTING ON THE BASE AND CLEAR AS SOON AS YOU CAN. THE LONGER YOU WAIT, THE WORSE IT GETS. MY FIRST ONE PEELED 3 MONTHS LATER. IVE DONE ABOUT 13 OR 14 LIKE THIS AND THEY GET BETTER EVERYTIME
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dan green
Guest
IVE USED ALL KINS OF CLEAR FOR THIS BUT MY BEST RESULTS ARE WITH PPGS STRATO CLEAR
