Bare Metal vs Scuff & Spray?

[Mongo]

Hey experts. Got a question.
If your going to change colors on a truck is it better to media blast to bare metal or just use the existing factory paint as the primer and spray your new color on top of it.

I say go with bare metal and use good materials for your undercoat. Just wondering what the excepted method is as I plan on doing one in the next couple of months.

Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif

 

[Osh]

If the OEM paint is in good condition there's no reason to blast it off. Wetsand,scuff, repair chips where necessary and paint.I'd be more worried about taking it apart all the way,doors off and taken apart,fenders off,hood off, bed off,whatever has a bolt thru it, take it apart.
One caveat, what year is it,new or old.

Osh

 

[robert.tallon]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/think.gifJust remember.... it's very important to know how many mils of paint you already have on your vehicle before you go adding more. That will have a big impact on your paint durability later on. You never want the paint poured on. Thin often is better.
If it's a new vehicle and only has the original paint on it - then wet sanding and painting is the way to go for easier application, otherwise strip.
Best of Luck.

 

[rex]

Yeah,going over a sound factory job is fine.Now that that's said,make sure it isn't a factory repaint.I've seen Ford,GM and Chrysler actually repaint a vehicle up to 4 times before it left the factory.The 3 and 4 redo's are easy to spot because of the look,but if you can get someone with a guage (like the rep or store of the paint you'll be using) to measure it you'll be sure.The repaints are far and few between but I get a few every month.

 

[Mongo]

Thanks for the input guys. I agree with you factory re-paints. I have an 88 Ford F-150 that I bought new and it came with baprimer from the Factory. Ford repainted it twice. The first time came out worst than the factory re-paint so the second time they were supposed to go to bare metal to remove the defective primer. Now years later the paint has continued to shrink enough that all the places they failed to DA are showing up. It really looks bad so I'm just going to take it all off and start over.

Thanks again

 

[rex]

Actually you don't have to go to steel on those.Ford said the e-coat wasn't sticking to the metal but that wasn't the problem,my best guess is there was a uv screening agent problem in the base because it would only peel where the sun hit it.When you took off the moldings,emblems,etc you couldn't get the paint off the ecoat for nothing short of sanding.I never stripped one all the way,I razorbladed off what I could and sanded off what wouldn't peel,then Put a good coat of DP epoxy on it with a splash of slow reducer for a little flow.Never had one come back and there's still a few floating around.You're gonna have fun removing all that paint,I don't envy you since stripping paint is up there on my list with sandblasting and the doc poking his finger in my butt.

 

[Mongo]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lolsign.gif
I agree! I hate stripping paint. But, I have a guy local that will media blast the whole truck for $500 so I may take him up on it.

 

[rex]

I've never checked into the price of media blasting but I think I'd take him up on it too,only for the reason I hate doing it so much.It costs a few but it makes your job easier.

 

[wickedpty]

I paid $1000 to have my 68 Mustang Walnut Blasted inside and out. Took me at least a month to get most of the stuff out og the frame rail nd stuff. Well worth the money.