Base Coats

[Jim Baldwin]

I'm fairly new at trying to create flames on my scooters. That's not really the problem. I own my own body shop and have years of experience with cars, but the problem I'm having is with my base coats. I use DBU base/clear by PPG and even thinned 500% it seems to be still clogging my airbrush. I'm just learning, as I said, and am using a Paasche single action, .5mm tip and not having much luck. It's probably the single action that causes such trouble. You can do a short pass and sit for even 10 seconds, hit the button and it's usually plugged enough, that I have to return to a practice area, turn up the air and fluid to get it to go again. I'm running around 20 # of air at most times. I realize I have to get a different airbrush, maybe thinking about an Iwata HP-BCS. In my years of doing body work, we all know that we get set in our ways about change. I spent 15 years with my Binks 7, fighting the need for a HVLP, thinking it was a waste of money. Now, after three years with my Sata Rainbow,

I understand the value of having not only good tools to work with, but the better you can get, the better your work will be. So, what does anyone think out there for me as far as an upper end airbrush that I can use to paint flames, shading of flames and some mural work? Also, does anyone know about what types of base I can use that will be compatible with Omni clears, that will be workable for several days without scuffing and repainting? Sorry for the long post, but I try to get as much done with my time as I can! Jim Baldwin/Big Timber, Montana.I'm adding a link to our webstorage site with pics of the Yamaha Roadstar of my buddy, Casey, that we painted in November. It's done with PPG Honda black/gold metallic, with very dark blue metallic tribal ghost flames. Casey did the skull on his tank and fender with a real bum badger single action brush that barely worked. See why I need a better one for murals. We're painting his bike trailer with a mural of the Grim Reaper and more tribal flames on it and don't have a good enough tool! Enjoy the pictures. We like to ride scoots every day here in Montana!

http://community.webshots.com/album/54766060dSNdqz

 

[BonesFX]

The first thing that came to my attention in your post is the air pressure you're using - You have a bottom feed brush and in my experience you need to be up around 40 pounds to siphon the paint up and out.

The next thing would be the PPG DBU Base - This is the same stuff I use but, I mix the DMD toners by my self - PPG mixing calls for 1:1 - DMD Toner and 695 Balancing Clear. The balancing clear might be what is clogging you up - along with the low pressure and tip dry (this is paint that dries on the tip of your needle - happens alot with urethanes) - I mix mine Craig Frasers way - 25% Balancing clear to 100% DMD toner - then reduce at least 200% - up to 400% for say black drop shadows -

If you want a nice brush get an Iwata HP-C gravity fed (sometimes people freak out on the gravity fed part, but once you get used to the idea it's great) Mine's hot-rodded with solvent proof seals and I have a .2mm nozzel on it - -out side of some tip dry - this brush rocks - I used to use a badger 150 - similair to your's and I haven't pulled it out in 3 years -- Check out coastairbrush.com and airbrushaction.com and they can hook you up for around 150.00 -- well worth it!!!
Good Luck - - Bones!~

 

[Jim Baldwin]

Thanks, Bones. You may be on to something with the balancing clear. I never did actually weigh it on my scale, but will tonite. I just threw a big dollop in the dmd without thinking about the results! How does your brush handle the paint with the 2mm. tip? I could hardly spray mine with a 5...? Gotta run, but I'll check back after work. Thanks for the help. JB

 

[Hnrys69]

Originally posted by BonesFX:
The first thing that came to my attention in your post is the air pressure you're using - You have a bottom feed brush and in my experience you need to be up around 40 pounds to siphon the paint up and out.

The next thing would be the PPG DBU Base - This is the same stuff I use but, I mix the DMD toners by my self - PPG mixing calls for 1:1 - DMD Toner and 695 Balancing Clear. The balancing clear might be what is clogging you up - along with the low pressure and tip dry (this is paint that dries on the tip of your needle - happens alot with urethanes) - I mix mine Craig Frasers way - 25% Balancing clear to 100% DMD toner - then reduce at least 200% - up to 400% for say black drop shadows -

If you want a nice brush get an Iwata HP-C gravity fed (sometimes people freak out on the gravity fed part, but once you get used to the idea it's great) Mine's hot-rodded with solvent proof seals and I have a .2mm nozzel on it - -out side of some tip dry - this brush rocks - I used to use a badger 150 - similair to your's and I haven't pulled it out in 3 years -- Check out coastairbrush.com and airbrushaction.com and they can hook you up for around 150.00 -- well worth it!!!
Good Luck - - Bones!~

<font size="2" face="Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Where did you get the .2mm tip??

 

[DaveK]

Bones is definatley right about the solvent proof seal on the iwata. They don't come with them and I ate mine up in a few months. irregular spray pattern plus paint backing up in the body will result. Only Coast Airbrush offers that solution. With all do respect Bones, I disagree about using such a small tip size, especially for flames. They get damaged and are more prone to spit and clog. I have the HP-C (.3 mm) and the HP-SB (.2 mm) and the eclipse. One stands for Cup and the other is Side Bowl. I only use the SB for tight work. I have also experinced the same problem that you had with suction feed guns but, I prefer the gravity. I think the Eclipse that you mentioned is what I would buy with the Teflon seal.

Also, in regards to the other post, I think any tip size can be put on any iwata gun while using a matching needle.

DaveK

 

[Jim Baldwin]

Thanks, Dave, I followed Bone's and your advice on getting the right tool to start with. I've got a HP-C on its way. I checked out prices at two sites, Coast and Bearair. They were about the same for the HP-C, so I'm getting one from Coast. With the good seals. What I've seen of the Paasche and Badger in playing around with the box full I've got, they are touchy, hard to keep clean and overall a pain in the *** . Iwata has the simplest system with the least hassle. This board is a rockin board! There's nothing in this world worth "EXPERIENCE" and I appreciate the brotherhood here. Thanks again. Jim

 

[BonesFX]

Dave, I don't use the HP-C to shoot in my flames, I use a detail gun for that, then come back with the HP-C to add the tips or drop shadows and small stuff like that - When I first got the brush I was using about 20 PSI and it would clog and spit like crazy - I have since brought my pressure up to 35-40 PSI and talk about a huge difference - I still get some tip dry, but it atomizes much better and I have better overall control of whats coming out of it now - I got the brush from Dave at Coast Airbrush and when I asked for the solvent proof seals he suggested I get the .2mm nozzel and matching needle - I was a newbie and said OK - But I'm glad I did - I can spray wide and tight with it - It was just like my wife when I first met her - -needed to figure out what it could do and what it couldn't - of course I screwed up a few times - but she forgave me --- Unfortunetly I'm still waiting for my wife to!!!

--- Bones!~

 

[DaveK]

Bones..... don't get me wrong. I'm not sure what people are using to paint flames. Im fixin to post a pic of a skull with flames that was painted entirely with an HP-C. Its just that when I started airbrushing, I bought the HP-C a year ago and had a hard time understanding its moods. Kinda like yours and my wife. I had to back up and get an eclipse to really understand painting on a larger scale. I just think it was a mistake I had made by going with too small of a gun at first. Of course, I didn't understand the paint and all I was painting at the time was RC Car bodies.

All in all..... I think my wife has forgiven me for spending 4K in equipment since then..... I think.

Not sure what that Weird little icon is doing
DaveK