Brush Metal Under Clear

[Vettra]

If you have seen some of the new Harley paint schemes for 2010, there are some where they use a graphic element such as a tribal or flame that has been masked off over bare brushed metal. I was wondering if anyone on the forum has done this and if so could you describe the process?

I was mainly thinking about the type of wire brush wheel may have been used to get the effect and if there was any special prep or care needed when clear coating.

 

[TAZ]

H-D has used these for several years. They mainly used them on the Screamin Eagles and their color shop sets.
I've never done one, but if I did one, I would start with all new parts (or stripped used ones), then do the metal work with a dremel(?). I would just do this in the proximity of where I will be putting the stripes or flames. Then I would clean the metal, use an adhesion promoter, then clearcoat. Then I would resand and mask UP the graphics or flames. Then spray whatever color the base is going to be. Then I would clearcoat once again, resand, add some pinstriping on the edge, and clear again.
Not for sure if that's how they do it, but that's how I would think it would be done.

I know H-D had a problem with the clear adhering and having problems with surface rust starting under the clear.

Anyone else
:ears:

 

[Vettra]

I could see a potential rust problem. I am going to try a test soon on one of my steel tank blanks

 

[TAZ]

Sounds good, keep everyone posted on how it comes out!

 

[Jay Horton]

Hi Vettra,

It's going to be tough not to get rust, especially down there in Tampa. Even if you clean till you are blue-in the face, rust will pop up sooner or later. I did an experimental tank a few years back and got rust in only a few days ( I live north of Gainesville ). The tank was stunning ( kandy UK05 cobalt blue over the grind marks ) but, never the less, it rusted. It has been suggested to me by a very old experienced custom painter, that the effect could be created by utilizing various silver metallics over a cleared light or chrome-paint base. I think the chrome base would be the best.
Prep, base & clear the substrate. 400-600 scuff the clear and apply some silver base with large metallics in it. Use a scuff pad on a 2"-3" wheel or scotch bright pad ( like a 3M Roloc). Lightly apply grind marks to the surface and repeat or simply clear at this point. I think it will work but, as of yet, I haven't attempted it. It will not produce the absolutely brilliant effect that the ground steel will just a reasonable facsimile but, it won't rust either. Just food for thought. Later Jay

 

[Vettra]

Thanks Jay- I like the concept of using an actual paint but I think you are right in that it wouldn't give the same ffect as the brushed metal. Do you have any shots of the one you did?

 

[Brian Dee]

Here's one that was done with the effect you mentioned. It was done 2 years ago,so far so good. But the bike is also stored inside.and the tank always kept full. This will help to reduce the condensation.

Guess time will tell.

 

[Vettra]

Sweet= Thanks for posting image along with the info

 

[TAZ]

Here's one that was done with the effect you mentioned. It was done 2 years ago,so far so good. But the bike is also stored inside.and the tank always kept full. This will help to reduce the condensation.

Great job Brian...I always wanted to try one of those type jobs with a candy over it (red or tangerine)

 

[Vettra]

I would like to do a real world test on a steel tank blank before I do it on a customer's bike. I think I will create on and store it outside for a year. I am in Tampa Fl. Our biggest issue is salt air and humidity.

 

[Brian Dee]

Thanks Scott, doing it on a tank blank would be a good idea. Just to see how it holds up. I'm in the same situation. Sea level , sea air,and lots of rain.

 

[TAZ]

Thanks Scott, doing it on a tank blank would be a good idea. Just to see how it holds up. I'm in the same situation. Sea level , sea air,and lots of rain.

Actually, pretty good idea!