buffing after wetsanding question

[BDsbigZRX]

I usually give my clears 24 hours to dry. After I wetsand my clearcoats with 2000g, I use the 3M "super cut III" cutting compound on a "white" pad. I buff things out pretty good, using the compound sparingly. Seems to do a good job. I seem to get most of the compound buffed out/off during this process. There's typically a very small amount of product still left on the surface. Then I use "Race Glaze" buffing compound on a "black" pad, and again, with some back and forthing and using the Race Glaze sparingly, it all seems to buff out nicely and shines well. I just keep working it back and forth, and eventually almost all the swirls and such are gone, and the finish has a nice smooth shine.

Here's the problem. When I take a rag/cloth whatever, and wipe off the piece one final time, I notice a gentle "wetness" still on the surface, that can't be wiped off! Does that make sense? It's like if I took the towel, and went and drew an "S" on the piece, you can see some sort of compound remnants left on the surface! You can "erase" the "S" by just rubbing across it vertically or horizontially /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

What's going on here? Any rag/towel I use produces the same results, so I think it's some sort of super thin residue on the surface. Should I be cleaning between coats with 50/50 water/alcohol mixture? Maybe I should do that afterwards when I am all done buffing? I changed out all my pads with brand new ones, and they are all buffing compounds and pads suited to each oter that I bought at the local PPG distributor. What gives? Do I need to just let it sit and dry for a day or so, then wipe it off?

Help!

Bryan

 

[BDsbigZRX]

was thinking about it, and it's kinda like if you applied wax, then tried to remove it before it's completely dried, it kinda leaves a hazy film that smears, know what I mean?????

Anyone???

 

[Osh]

What kind of clear? 24 hours isn't long enuff for any clear. If your wetsanding with 2000# use 3m perfectit 2 compound or a polish instead of compound.a black waffle pad works for me.fiinsh with 3m handglaze.

 

[BDsbigZRX]

3m perfectit 2 compound

That's what I am using. With a "white" waffle pad. Then the raceglaze polish on a black waffle finishing pad

 

[rex]

It is best to wash after compounding to make sure it's all gone then polish and wash again.If washing doesn't remove the film it's just one of those products that do that.Washing should remove it but a hand glaze will.Some of these glazes leave a film too and you have to use lots of rags and wiping to remove it.I got away from the glazes and after I polish I use an instant detailer like Mothers or Meguires to clean it up.Seems to be a little less work.

Oh,if it isn't cool out and you aren't using a slow or overall clear 24hrs isn't bad (sorry Osh).Most say at 70degrees overnight or 24hrs is cool to buff.If you wait too long you'll either have to double buff it or use a wool pad at first to get the 2000 scratches out.Look real carefull at it to make sure the scratches are totally gone because as it dries and shrinks up a little any faint scratches left will exagerate and you'll have to buff it again-of course the clear is hard as hell now and it isn't fun.

 

[Osh]

Not saying I've never done it Rex,i do it all the time in a production shop. i just prefer not to do it on custom work with layers of basecoat, graphics,intercoat clear more graphics and topcoat clear. As you well know it can get a little thick in the mils and even baking it is not going to completely dry it thru and thru.I've had paint reps tell me that even though you can wetsand and buff and handle it and maybe even abuse it a little that urethane isn't completely cured for 3 months. thats why they say no wax for 60 to 90 days.
just my .02 worth.......and thats all it's worth

 

[tcannon]

Hey Rex, I was wondering about using detailer on new paint. Just wasn't sure if they contained silicones or not. I guess since you use them, you checked the msds sheets for silicone. I'll start using them unless you (or someone else) says there's silicone in there.
Thanks, TC

 

[rex]

Nope,no silicones.At least the 2 I mentioned don't and are safe to use in the paint area.They do leave some type of thin protective film but it doesn't hinder curing and wipes right off with G&W remover if you need to do more painting.

Osh,I know what you mean now.On multilayered stuff I like to wait a few days for things to shrink,but I always do the flowcoat.My SOP is 3 or 4 coats on the last grafix,let it sit,sand it flat and then 2 coats.I normally don't sand the whole thing to buff,just knock out any dirtnibs and buff the next day.Down here paint will cure in 30 days for the most part,we only get about 3 or 4 months it's cool enough to slow it down.In PPG's chemistry 30 days is it,and I'd suspect everyone else is about the same,but when you get up in your neck of the woods those cool nights stop the crosslinking and doesn't start untill the next day when it warms up again,over and over.That's why you guys are stuck with the longer cure time.