buffing clear

[DakotaVTX]

OK, I've painted my flames and cleared using HOK UFC-35. I have a few runs and sags but overall not bad. In addition, the final clear has a light rippled appearance, kinda like light waves on a lake. I have read the instructions in the how to section but since you guys do this daily, i just wanted to know if their are any additional tips and tricks that you can give me before sanding and buffing. Thanks, I'll post pictures when it's done.

DakotaVTX

 

[DakotaVTX]

Thanks Bones. The clear was done Sunday afternoon and been sitting inside a factory since then at about 65-70 degrees. How long is too long?
I did get a 3M waffel pad (only one) to use. Should I use it for the buffing compound or the rubbing compound? I assume that if i use it for the rubbing compound I can't rinse it out and reuse it for the buffing compound. Would it be OK then to just use a standard new bonnet for the rubbing compound and then use the waffel pad for the buffing? Advise

You said that you used to use UFC-35 clear, what do you use now and why did you change? I don't think I'll be doing this again but you never know.

DakotaVTX

 

[BonesFX]

It might be getting hard by now - press your finger on it and see if you print stays there - if so get to sanding and buffing -- if not buy some extra compound!!!

I use the 3m waffle "yellow" pad for 3m's rubbing compound, then switch to a 3m waffle "black" pad and use the 3m glazing compound.

You can probably use the same one - just becareful with the yellow pad when your glazing - its a lot rougher -- Good luck!!! --- Bones!~

 

[Stretch]

I also painted some stuff on Sunday and am waiting for it to dry. We're in the middle of a blizzard right now though so my garage isn't exactly warm. If I press my finger into the clear it doesn't show, but I can scatch it with my fingernail? Is that normal or is it not hardened enough?

Thanks-Stretch

 

[BonesFX]

First thing is to take your time!!!

I'm not sure how long your clear has been sitting or what temp it's sitting at, but make sure you don't wait to long to buff it - It's a pain in the *** when it gets really hard!

As far as your sags and runs, depending on where they are at and how big they are you can use 800 or 1000 by hand or wrapped around a stick - After they're smoothed out hit it all with 1500 and lots of water, then hit it again with 2000 - dry as you go so you can make sure you're not missing any part and that it's all flat - this is where you'll get rid of any dirt nibs and that nasty orange peel (I used to use the ufc-35 too).

Pull out your buffer and sling some 3m rubbing compound on - I work around 12 - 1400RPM's Be extra careful with your buffer - it's real easy to watch one end of the wheel and the other end catches a filler neck or something and burns right through it - Maybe have a friend help hold the parts and keep an extra set of eyes on it - After its all rubbed out hit it with some 3m glazing compound at around 16-1800rpm - this stuff gets rid of any swirl marks and makes it shine even better - When your done with that wash it down with some soapy water and get all the rubbing compound out of the tiny areas - Now you can go inside and change outta those nasty clothes with rubbing compound all over them - grab a beer and admire your beautiful , hand crafted , Made in the USA paint job!!! Bones!~