Buffing Compounds

A

AirArt

New member
Hi Folks,
I've been using 3M Perfect it III compound but I noticed it's an "aggressive" cut. I'd rather not use the aggressive cut if not necessary. I'm wondering what you all find is the best brand, part number and type compound to give you the best high gloss finish?
This has been an ongoing struggle for me. I just can't seem to get a real good, high luster, like glass finish.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil
 
hoss

hoss

New member
try using a one of those wool looking pads w/ the perfect it. If i used the foam pads it left cut marks, but the wool pad gets it nice and smooth.
 
A

AirArt

New member
Hey Randy,
The Aurora 3000 is a "hand glaze"
Are you using it with your buffing machine or by hand?
I've got all sorts of 3M compounds from before Perfect It up to Perfect It III and I've used the foam pads, wool pads, synthetic wool pads and I gotta be doing something wrong cuz that "like glass" finish keeps eluding me.
To do an average size front fender, I run a line of compound down the center, get the pad edges good and wet, then buff with moderate to high pressure. When the compound disappears and I release the pressure I stop and check the finish. It's not super shiny and I'm not sure if I'm using too much or too little compound. The finishing glaze helps but still, not a glass like finish.
Any help guys .... what the heck am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
Phil
 
T

TAZ

Guest
I like using the white foam pads with the 5936 compound, then the black foam pad with the 5966.

Sometimes I will use the 6060 compound.

All the above are 3M products
 
A

AirArt

New member
Thanks Randy and Scott

I was a "wool pad" guy for a long time but lately I've been getting better results with foam pads.
I'll try the numbers you suggested Scott, I've probably got them already. Also, I've probably been too low on the RPMs when buffing. I have a Makita variable speed and I've been setting at 1.5 cuz I don't wanna burn thru but I'll try a faster speed and see how it works out.
Thanks again,
Phil
 
J

Jim

Member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

Phil,Just curious,what are you wetsanding with first?I go 1500 or 2000,anything courser will leave alot of sand scratches that are very hard to remove by buffing,jim.
 
V

viper91180

New member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

what are you using after your done the cutting stage? do you use a cleaner polish or anything? i use either 3m or a product called microcut 2000, followed by a cleaner polish #52 (sem makes it i think) anyways, after the cutting polish, even with a black 3m pad, it does look a little dull, but run the 52 cleaner polish over it with a clean black pad and wow what a difference!!
 
A

AirArt

New member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

Hey Jim,
I was using 1500 then 2000 but lately I've been fine with 2000 only. It depends on the clearcoat. If it's pretty darn good with no orange peel, I use the 2000 only. If I have to take out some o'peel I'll use the 1500 first.
Thanks,
Phil
 
A

AirArt

New member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

After the cutting phase I go to the finishing glaze on a white foam pad. This generally takes out any 'foggy' areas and when I'm done with the finishing glaze, I sometimes use the old pink hand glaze. It helps with the finish but I know my problems are back at the cutting stage. I'm afraid of burn thru and maybe I'm not buffing enough. I may try some medium cut compound then go to fine cut compound but I would think if it's sanded properly I could go directly to the fine cut compound.
Just out of curiosity, how long do you guys spend buffing your average 'one piece' tank?
Thanks,
Phil
 
V

viper91180

New member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

you said you use low speed with med to hight pressure, try a higher speed and low pressure, let the pad do the work!
 
A

Austin

New member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

When the 3m rep was in my shop he recomended about 1800 rpm which is relitively slow. He said higher speeds can score the paint if the pad goes dry.
If you read the bottle of the compound you use it should give a recomended RPM to buff at, if not you can call the tech # and get a recomendation.
Austin
 
J

Jim

Member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

Phil,I was asking because Buffing is usually the easy part.I use 1500 or 2000, rinse the part with water,I use meguire's diamond cut coumpound on a yellow waffle followed by swirl mark remover on a black waffle,3m machine polish on another black waffle and then finish up with 3m hand glaze by hand.I always rinse with water after each coumpound to insure all the grit is gone before going to the next step.I can cut 1500 marks out with the diamond cut if I'm in a hurry.I use a makita buffer on 2 1/2 or 3,I don't remember the rpm but can look.Hope this helps,Jim
 
A

AirArt

New member
Hey Jim ... must be the RPMs

I use the Makita variable speed buffer also but I know I set mine to 1.5 - 2. That must be the problem, not enough pad speed. Next buffing job I'll go to 2.5 - 3 and see how that works out.
One other question to all ..... when you refer to foam pads, do you mean the waffle type pads or the smooth face pads?
Thanks,
Phil
 
A

AirArt

New member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

Meant to tell ya a while ago Jim. You were right on about the speed. My problems all along have been too slow a speed on my buffer. I kicked it up to almost 3 on my Makita and the difference is like night and day.
Thanks. Now the buffing part IS the most enjoyable!
Not only does it bring back the luster but it means I'm done! LOL
Phil
 
J

Jim

Member
Re: Thanks Randy and Scott

Great!another problem solved!Ain't this board great?I go just under 3 and evrything works out,sometimes,I have to bear down but,the 1500 and 2000 scratches come out just fine.
 
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