Buffing Helmet Stand

[Stretch]

For those that have painted helmets, what do you mount them on when buffing. I was trying to buff a helmet out last night holding the helmet in one hand and the buffer in another. Needless to say my arms hurt now. It was just awkward. I'd like to have the helmet mounted on something so I could handle the buffer with both hands and do a better job. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks-Stretch

 

[ezrider]

Stretch, try sitting on a milk crate or like i have a shop seat with wheels and sticking it on your knee. i personally use the roll of plastic holding device, sorry dont know the proper name, the upright style with wheels and place it on there. but the knee thing works well also.

 

[Stretch]

I was using my knee a bit but still had to use one hand to hold the helmet. I saw some mannequin heads on ebay that I could use to actually strp the helmet to and then I could hold the neck between my knees and use both hands to handle the buffer.

On a side note, is there an easy way to tell if I've wetsanded/buffed through my clear coat. I painted a helmet much like the tank in the 'How-To' section of this site following the steps exactly as written. During the buffing process the buffer knocked the helmet out of my hand and it landed on the floor.

I had already done a good deal of 2000 grit wet-sanding to get rid of the orange peel (this is my first project) and then had to wetsand again to eliminate the marks from dropping the helmet. Once all was said and done, the helmet is shiny, but nowhere near a new helmet gloss. Not sure if it's just my buffing/polishing technique or if I could have gone through the clear. The ghose flames are still intact and don't look to be diminished anywhere from sanding.

Thanks-Stretch

 

[ezrider]

Stretch, how about attaching a mannequin head to one of the paint stands in Scotts how to section, hey you can probibly freak out a couple of people by doing this. if there is a shine on the helemet with no dull spots your good to go you probibly havent broken through. sorry i dont get to paint many helmets the only helmet law in CT is for permit holders.The manniquen idea on the paint stand would be a wise investment if you do enough of them. what is the going rate for mannequin heads, i have a couple of people i would like to scare the crap out of

 

[rex]

I just look around the shop for one of those mentally challenged people most shops have and say'put this on and sit here'

The manequin idea is great,I've strapped it to my knee but it can be a pain.How much gloss did you lose Stretch?Most clears will lose a little gloss after buffing,some clears lose more than others.There's actually a meter the companies have that can measure gloss but I don't know what it's called.Alot of people think sanding and buffing increases the gloss,but it really increases the distinctness of image (DOI) and fakes them into thinking it has more gloss.Buffing with a course compound can also kill the gloss above normal.I like fine compound with a foam pad,but if that's too slow cutting I use a fine wool pad to knock out the scratches,lightly buff with the foam pad and then glaze it with a foam pad.

 

[ezrider]

Rex, i like your helmet stand better

 

[Stretch]

I did use the Heavy Cut compound from Meguiars. I wetsanded quite a bit after the clear to smooth things out. I then buffed with a white pad, then polished with a foam and hand applied the show car glaze. I don't think I'm anywhere near where I was right after applying the clear coat which makes me think I went too far. When I clean the helmet with a degreaser, that makes it FAR MORE glossy than it is when it dries.

I also like the helmet idea, but no random people hanging around in my garage.

Thanks-Stretch

 

[rex]

That sounds like alot.If you broke through you'd know it because there'd be a distinct ring and the center will be duller.It sounds like the coarse compound imbedded in.It's still easy to get heavy compound but they're a thing of the past with the newer clears,it's really hard on them.Actually 2000 grit scratches will come out with a machine glaze but don't try it,it creates to much work and heat.Try 3Ms Perfect III or Finess It compound,they're pretty melow.I think I would lightly scuff it back down and reclear it,but be light on the sanding so you don't break through.

 

[Stretch]

I just ordered one from Drop-Zone.com. It was a bit more than the styrofoam head but looks to be sturdier.

I actually bought some light stands from Sears for $19 (on sale a few weeks ago). I removed the lights and now I have stands that have adjustable height and can easily be rotated. They are probably not as sturdy as Scott's but an option that works well for me. I also just bought a canopy and some fans to make a 'working man's' paint booth in my garage. I'll post pictures once it's all done.

As far as the clear coat, I've buffed, polished and hand glazed and don't have the shine I was hoping for. Any ideas? Is the buff/polish a process that takes a bit to pick up? Or is there possibly there is just not enought clear to really shine up?

Thanks for the advice. I'll let everyone know how this all works out.

Thanks-Stretch

 

[indflux]

stretch, I gotta hold of a long domed table light fixture with a base that i found at a thrift store. I removed the wireing and clapped the base to my work station. works great -n- was cheap.

 

[Grashopr]

I used milk cartons that are filled with cement...they weigh a ton, you can strap the helmet to the handle of the milk carton, and they are DISPOSEABLE!!!

The 'hopper'

**if you dont have access to cement, use plain old sand, or just plain water...**

 

[TWISTED]

I always strap the helmet to my knee and do it all by hand. It's a good workout as well. I did all my buffing by hand for years and bought an electric when I painted my first car.

 

[kustom paint workz]

I agree with rex find someone and just strap it on their head it is much more fun. One day when no one was around I needed to buff a helmet and I took an empty paint can screwed it to a two by four, wraped it in paper and then duct tape. clamped it to the work bench and it worked great. I definitely think the manequin head is an excellent idea. how did it work out?

 

[Kelly Ruble]

The maniquin head is what I use. It is mounted to a camera tripod. I can lock it down tite or lossen it up to rotate or tilt the helmet.
Kelly
Fireone Custom Airbrush