I am starting on a new custom rigid and I want to finish this one right down to the paint. It has been a few years since I have done any painting and things seem to have changed a lot. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif If my paint turns out good I would hate to ruin it buffing it out. Any suggestion on what kinds of pads and compounds to use on the finished paint after I sand it? The only type of pads I have used were wool. I am trying to save myself a headache and possibly a paint job. Thanks in advance. By the way and suggestions on body fillers for molding the frame and finishing the sheet metal. thanks again.
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buffing out new paint
- Thread starter Rusty1964
- Start date
Welcome man.For buffing on fresh paint I like the foam buffing and polishing pads but if it's sat for a while a quick hit with wool and 3M's Finesse It compound is usually good to remove 1500 or fine scratches.For the foam pads (3M and Shlaegle are the best) Perfect It 3 compound is good and their polish on a foam polish pad,just make sure you have a dedicated pad for each product.If the Perfect It compound isn't quite doing it the Finesse It is a little more aggressive,then just step down to the Perfect It compound and Polish.
For fillers any good bondo will work and all the quality ones are running about $28 a gallon.If you want something a little stronger for initial heavy molding like on the frame Allmetal is very good,but I'll warn you this stuff turns into fine owder when sanded and you'll look like the Tinman from the Wizard Of Oz if it gets on you-it's so fine the dust blows off but that first layer imbeds in your pores.Best stuff made but nasty to work with.If you do use it just do the roughout with it for filling and then skimcoat it with good bondo or a 2part putty like Icing or any other 'pourable' putty.
For fillers any good bondo will work and all the quality ones are running about $28 a gallon.If you want something a little stronger for initial heavy molding like on the frame Allmetal is very good,but I'll warn you this stuff turns into fine owder when sanded and you'll look like the Tinman from the Wizard Of Oz if it gets on you-it's so fine the dust blows off but that first layer imbeds in your pores.Best stuff made but nasty to work with.If you do use it just do the roughout with it for filling and then skimcoat it with good bondo or a 2part putty like Icing or any other 'pourable' putty.
N
newbie
Guest
Rex,
I'm still working on my first job. I'm getting a finish that I think is beautiful on a couple of my finished pieces. Is there any reason that I have to sand and buff the final product. Does anyone ever not do that?
I almost hate to touch it, even with 1500 or higher.
I know it's a stupid question, but humor me.
Thanks,
newbie
I'm still working on my first job. I'm getting a finish that I think is beautiful on a couple of my finished pieces. Is there any reason that I have to sand and buff the final product. Does anyone ever not do that?
I almost hate to touch it, even with 1500 or higher.
I know it's a stupid question, but humor me.
Thanks,
newbie
LudicrousSpeed
New member
I got an excellent flowout and finish on my bike, with no dust, so I didn't touch it. Nobody has mentioned it, and it still looks great two years later.......
flamethrower
New member
If there are no flaws in the topcoat, leave the polisher in the toolbox. That is the ideal finish. That super deep, incredibly shiny finish. Yeah, baby! I've even had guys tell me to overlook a couple runs to keep that look, but I polished it all out. If you have to polish anywhere, you'll probably need to do the whole enchilada because you will notice the difference. Even though the polished area looks shiny, it doesn't have the depth and luster of a non-polished finish.
Way to go! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif
FT
Way to go! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif
FT
Newbie,what Flamethrower said is so true.If you don't have to buff it don't so you keep that higher gloss.If I see some small dustnibs that bother me or they insist it be buffed I start with 2000.The only time I go for the 1500 or courser is if I shave out a run or get kamakazied by a chunk or spider as it dries.Yeah,we have a bad spider problem and once in a while I get one if I cook it after it's done,those little bastards really suck.
Rusty,I forgot to mention Duraglass,it's a short haired version of Kittyhair,Gorillahair,etc.Alot of people use it and it's very popular.I don't like it because I've had it leave a line trying to smooth out welds and stuff,it actually looks more like a stain or something directly over the weld joint.At first I thought it was hardner bleedthrough but after experimenting that wasn't it so I quit using it for the most part.
Rusty,I forgot to mention Duraglass,it's a short haired version of Kittyhair,Gorillahair,etc.Alot of people use it and it's very popular.I don't like it because I've had it leave a line trying to smooth out welds and stuff,it actually looks more like a stain or something directly over the weld joint.At first I thought it was hardner bleedthrough but after experimenting that wasn't it so I quit using it for the most part.
T
tcannon
Guest
Hey Rex, did you take any pics of the kamawhatsi spider effect? That might be a nice complement to those "natual" spider webs we talked about a few days/weeks ago. TC /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif For some reason the little bastards only land belly up as the clear is setting so after you touch them all that's left is back skin-they could at least dig into wet clear or land in a position you can do a little ingenious work with.And to top it off it's always those baby Wolf? spiders,nothing of any size.I think a housefly could bodyslam these little pests.What really sucks is the area here is overrun with black and brown widows,one of these belly up would have some potential at least.
T
tcannon
Guest
Yea, Wolf spiders in paint are about as artistic a gnats. Oh well, I had a vision of Tarantula type spiders, legs out stuck in the clear. I'm still going to play with Mother Nature when it gets warm here. Rode my bike to work this morning... nice sunny morning... about 18 degrees. Didn't see a single bug! TC /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/agree.gif
Kiss my butt,it was 80 here today and my scoot's still in a wadded up mess waiting for the insurance money to fix it.I won't rant now but don't wreck it,I hate insurance companies because they illegally control my industry but after this accident they're no good f*#@^% scumbags that want their money now but when it comes time to pay they stroke you around and now your bike's worth 1/2 price.I know I won't have insurance with these scumbags after a month of fighting for my money and going off the deep end when they said 7K will total a 13K bike,they're going to drop me when they sign the final check.
T
tcannon
Guest
80? It ain't even 80 in the house. Hate to hear about your scooter, Rex. I've delt with those insurance adjusters (the good hands people). Kentucky is one of those "no fault" states. You can't even sue someone if they run over you unless you have signed a waiver to decline the no fault privalige. This only pertains to motorcycles not cars or trucks. Yea, $7k in damages on a $12k bike will total it. You
get a nice check for $7k from Mr. Goodhands. TC /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
get a nice check for $7k from Mr. Goodhands. TC /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
What's up Jim?I had an oops but it wasn't my fault this time.I was coming home and a semi came cranking around a turn and ran me off the road.Normally no big deal but once I got on the shoulder the pavement was too high to get back up on and straight ahead was the railroad track bed,the lightpole,a ditch and a house,so I jumped.I didn't get it too bad,a couple cuts on the head,lots of gravel rash on the head and rt leg and very sore for a few days but I walked away (1/2 the leg deal was when I fell in a culvert after I woke up and got moving around.Glad I have a hard head though,I left the bean bucket home that day.The bike cartwheeled down the road and wasted the sheetmetal,bars,and most of the right side but didn't bother the frame,forks and drivetrain.I was amazed it survived that well.We're fixing it but I had to get nasty with the insurance company because the bill came to 7K and they kept trying to total it because of a dispute over their idea of it's value.I'm still being jerked around on the suppliment because the adjuster's office and the insurance company can't seem to comunicate.I know the insurance company is getting mad because they can't cancel my policy until I get paid and I'm on their a$$ almost every day.Gotta go back to work,take care man.
P
paintricks
Guest
I hate it when their legs break off when trying to tweeze them out of fresh clear. That sux.