CALAMITY!!!

[wammied]

Hi everyone, long time lurker Mike here. Great site and alot of freely shared knowledge here, thanks Scott!
In my eternal quest to gain knowledge to share, I have created a problem...
I just shot a tank and side covers in HOK orion silver metallic under rootbeer candy.
In spite of all my best efforts to create a sterile environment in which to spray, I wound up with dirt in my paint. I don't mean little floaties type dirt, I mean chunks of dirt. NEVER hang an 8 foot shop light that sat in a shed forever in you're booth until power washing it. (nuff said).
My question is, can I sand the clear/candy (to remove the dirt), reseal with KO-2 sealer, orion silver base and recandy?
The reason I ask is because the tech sheets say, "no uncatalyzed layers between catalyzed layers" even though it says you can scuff factory paint, seal and shoot. Somewhat of a contradiction.
What to do, what to do.......
Thanks in advance for any replies,
Mike

 

[rex]

I think the quote you said is pertaining more toward the 'wet on wet' spraying.If you let it sit for a few days to get it to dry well you should be fine.I'd actually forget the sealer and sand it with 6-800 and just re-silver it and candy it.It will be pretty thick by then so if you're not into stripping it try to keep it out of the sun the best you can.It'll live but don't unnessarily 'bake' it and you should be fine.I'd also try to sand it back down around the existing silver to help out even more,but it's a b!tch doing this and doing it evenly.

 

[wammied]

Hi Rex, thanks for the reply.
I plan to sand through the clear into the candy almost to the silver to get rid of thickness, and then rebase with
KO-SEAL II metallic primer/surfacer and go with candy from there.
I like the metallic of the KO better than the orion silver which almost looks like a pearl or satin finish to me.
I know what you mean about sanding candy, virtually impossible without less than desirable results.
Thanks again,
Mike

 

[rex]

If I'm thiking right the base isn't catalized,if so try to stay in the candy or if you break through to the silver take the candy off.I'm not the HOK guy here but breaking through a catalized candy into a non catalized base could be a wrinkle waiting to happen.One of the guys here that know this stuff can tell you one way or the other.

 

[wammied]

Hi Rex,
You're right, the KO-SEAL II is not catalyzed.
From what I understand, when you break through, it's the edge of the layer you broke through that causes the problem.
Apparently, the wet paint can work it's way under the edge wreaking havoc.
I'll post results/images when I'm done.
Thanks again for all the help,
Mike

 

[rex]

Exactly.If you can 'dry work' the product you minimize the chance of wrinkling,but you have to know if it affects adhesion.Actually it's not the product most of the time that causes it,it's the reducer whether it be added into the mix or it's already in the hardner.The wetter it stays the longer the chemicals have to seep under the edge and lift them.Like I said I'm not the HOK guy here (where the hell is EZ?) but the basics are all pretty much the same.

 

[DanS]

KO Seal is catalized. It uses KU 150 catalist to activate. Interesting topic though. I never had to think about this circumstance before.

 

[rex]

Uh oh,this doesn't sound good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crap.gifThe KoSeal is supposed to be catalized,I thought from your first post you used a basecoat over the sealer and that's what I was talking about.I guess stripping it is the only option now,sorry man.

 

[wammied]

Ooops! Yes, the ko-seal is catalyzed and I did use it.
Here is exactly what I did:
KP2CF epoxy primer (catalyzed)
KO-SEAL II metallic primer sealer (catalyzed)
Orion silver base coat (not catalyzed)
candy (catalyzed)
clear (catalyzed)

Here is what I am doing:
Sand tthrough clear partially into candy not breaking through to uncatalyzed orion silver.
Reshoot ko-seal and go right to candy and clear.

So, from what I understand, as long as I don't break through (HUGE if) into unctlyzd. layers, I should be able to reshoot catlyzd over the top no prob.
Thanks again,
Mike

 

[rex]

Yep.You might want to check into these:EZ made a post a while back about candying over KoSeal but I can't remember the jist of it.Also,if you don't specifically want the color of the KoSeal you should be able to base right back over the candy.One more is if you do break through a little,I would think the KS should seal it down but not sure,the base is what would really scare me.

 

[ezrider]

nothing was mentioned about reappling thr orion silver again?me personally i wouldnt kandy directly over the sealer, but it has been brought to my attention that you can, but its just my prefrance.

 

[wammied]

Hi Rex,
So as I knew I would, I wound up breaking through to orion silver in a couple spots.
Lettin' it sit goin on 2 weeks now to let it cure for awhile.
Then I'm going to try the ko-seal and see if everything stays down. I think I'll be alright..

Hi Joe,
My biggest reason for skipping orion silver is that I don't have enough left to do it again (3rd set of tins, 1 qt) as well as the fact that I like the metallic of the sealer better.
It has a coarser 'flake' to it.
It says in the tech sheets that you can use it as a base.

Thanks for the help,
Mike

 

[ezrider]

mike if coarse flake is what your after check out their new Metallic bases MBC 1, 2, 3. pretty kool but alittle costly about $100 a quart

 

[rex]

I knew you would but don't feel bad,I would have been very impressed if you didn't.Saying it's extremely hard to sand to a certain coat is a gross understatement.The sealer should go on fine but remember the breakthroughs and try not to overly wet those areas.Glad EZ's back,he's the man that knows this stuff.