Candy repair

Straykat

New member
Scott....This may have been answered before but....

I have an old dragboat in my shop...it was painted years ago pearl white ...with silver based candy red stripes all over it...The red has some chips in it,as does the white.
The owner is insisting that I repair/blend the chips and reclear the boat

Have you a method for repairing smaller chips or gouges in candy.My area of concern,after leveling the repair area...is not making the blend area too dark at the outer edges where it will blend onto the undamaged candy...
Any thoughts?...Thanks, Brian
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Definitely going to be a tedious job to do. Especially when you have two tri-stage colors to work on.

As far as the chips, since he just wants them spotted in, you will need to prep the boat. 800 DA the complete boat or wetsand the complete boat and take all the shine off.

Then you will need to repair the chip...lightly 320 the chips...get this as good as you can (don't feather the chip out...you want to keep this as small as possible), then add some filler into the chip using a razor blade. You need to smear this in as good as possible. Then sand and prime...Again, keeping the spot as small as possible. You can work the primer back to keep it small by just sanding the edges back to close the size of the chip.

Let's say you have a small chip about 1/4" big and the stripe is 8" wide. Once you get the chip prepped for paint, mask off the stripes a good ways each direction. About 2' each way.
Now you are ready for the blend .Make up a color that is close to the base under the candy. In your case, you want a solid gray (for under the silver). Then cover the spot by spraying it, keeping is small as possible (if you use a gray primer, you won't have to do this). Keep your air-pressure down.

Now you want to blend your silver. This is in important step to a good candy blend. You want to basically get the gray covered, but also work your way outward at the same time. If your stripe is about 8" wide, I would suggest just going ahead and spray the width of the stripe in the silver, and concentrate on blending the opposite two directions instead of keeping the spot so small, buy the time you are done with the silver and candy, you are an inch or so from the sides of the stripe anyway. So know you are concentrating on two blends instead of a 'circle'

Be sure and keep your air pressure down at all times as you don't want metallic all over the place. You also want to constantly tack rag outside the edges of your blends. You want this blend to slowly get bigger and bigger. You should keep the spot down to about 4-7" both ways. Sounds big, but one thing I've learned...don't try to keep it small, try to keep it easy. You want a very nice subtle transition on each side of the stripe with your silver. once you are happy with the blend, be sure you have no metallic outside the main blend line.

Ready for the candy. Start basically working the same way you did with the silver. Working your way outward. Try to stay away from the very ends...keep this until you get the silver fairly caught up with the rest of the stripe candy color. once you get it close, now work your way slowly beyond the area and blend this out *working* the candy in. You may want to tack off each coat so it does not get grainy on the ends of your blends.

You pretty much can do the pearl the same way. If you don't have a color code for the white pearl, make sure you match the white fairly close to what the white looks like with pearl already on it. This will help you out.

If you have a few spots close to each other, just pretend that is one large area and work each chip individually.

On pearls, I usually spray the white base, then spray some over reduced interclass in a bit larger area so the pearl blends in nice and neat. This may also help you though.

Remember not to ry to keep the spot too small, keep it simple. Also look for good breaking points you can use to your advantage like the edges of the strips or the edge of a window or bumper molding...

YO may want to spray one coat of interclear larger than your blends so when you wipe before you clear you do not remove part of your blend.

Definitely going to be a challenge for you though. Hope this helps you out some.

Good luck to you!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/luck.gif
 

Straykat

New member
As always ,thanks for the speedy reply.....Here are a few pics of what Im dealing with....very dull clear on the deck...here is one of the chips....on the deck
860DSCF0118k.JPG


Here is a small spot I buffed out on the deck,along with a couple of test plates I shot today at work...Orion silver on top....and a few varying degrees of Kandy red with HOK SG100 below...(I should have cleared them)just to see if I was anywhere close....the angle you view them from ...makes a large difference..

860DSCF0119k.JPG


Another view..

860DSCF0122k.JPG


A side shot of all the graphics...

860DSCF0120k.JPG


The paint inside will be a challenge as well.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek_yello.gif

860DSCF0121k.JPG


Again ..thank you very much for the tips....Brian
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Looks like the one spot you showed won't be 'too bad' to repair as long as the it's not too thick. I was thinking these were more like 'chips' and not a big spot where the paint peeled away. I don't think I would feather that out as this could end up in a 8x8 area by the time you get it feathered out, flat, and primed. I would scuff it up, then just add some flowable putty around it. Keep the 'repair' area as small as possible. Notice I said repair area. You can go 'bigger' on the paint area though. I would do a spot about 8-12" to the right of it, and possibly use that corner on the left of it as an area to blend the metallic candy.

As far as the inside, I've seen guys use some splatter paint and that looks great. Possibly a white or light gray base with red and darker gray splatters to tie in with the boat. This hides alot bad areas and still looks great.

Good Luck!
 
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