Clearcoat got the runs.

[CrAzYCurt]

Ok I just painted my car and the base coat was perfect. I waited about an hour or so and cleared it. I have a few runs in the clear coat. I heard that you can fix this. Can someone tell me how?

Thanks

 

[rex]

You used Centari clear right?Best thing to do is look at the product bulletin to get the dry to buff time,I can't remember it's been so long.To get the run out I take a short length of a good flat paintstick and wrap a piece of 600-800 grit on it so there's only one thickness on the side you'll sand with.Block it down just shy of level and go to 1000 or 1200 to finish leveling it.You can buff now or go to 1500-2000.There is one problem with buffing enamels-I've seen alot die back if you sand and buff them and remove too much.The problem is the protective resins rise to the top for protection as it dries,so removing too much kills it.I don't know if the clear reacts like this though because I only sprayed color.

 

[CrAzYCurt]

Do you have to buff after you sand? I dont have a buffer. Can you get a buffer wheel or whatever its called to go on a mini grinder?

Thanks

 

[CrAzYCurt]

Oh and I didnt use the centari stuff it it called dupont then under that it says nason. Its BC/CC though.

Should I wait a couple days before tring to sand out the runs?

 

[rex]

Ok,if it is the Nason I'd give 24hrs to cure.There are little buffing pads for the mini grinders but they usually turn too fast unless you have some buffing time under your belt.Normal buffing speed is 1500-1800 rpm.These mini's can turn 30,000 r's and if you try to regulate them down they lose all torque and stall constantly.I'd say your best bet is to block out the runs and scuff and reclear it.You know where you got heavy now so just back off in those areas.Overall put just a touch less on because there's no base to suck it up,what you put on will flow out nicely but watch the areas of compound overlap-like a pass in front then the side then the top.Try to figure your passes so things are smooth and you don't get major material overlap when working a pass into a spot that's already been covered.

 

[kevsLX]

Hey Curt, man don't sweat the runs. I'm fairly new at all this but in my short time painting I've realized that it's better to have some runs than it is to have a dry clear coat. Runs are easier to sand out! I've yet to lay down clear that hasn't needed some work after it sets up, just something I've come to accept until I get a little better at this stuff. But that's the nice thing about bc/cc, you can work with it after it cures.

 

[CrAzYCurt]

Ok thanks alot. I am not sure what I will do yet. I might just buy a buffer. I think it will be worth it if I am going to continue to paint.

Thanks Again.

 

[kustomrodder]

Hey Curt,
If the runs are bigger than average ,one thing you can do to save yourself a little time is to cut the run down using a new razor.Just wrap masking tape around both edges of the razor blade as to protect the surrounding finish and start running the blade over the run until it is low enough that you can begin the wetsanding process.I recommend starting with a 600 grit paper then move up to 1000,always careful not to go through to the bc.
Hope this helps,good luck......