Cut through factory clear...

[supersport]

I've been doing a little leveling of the lousy factory paint on my '03 SVT Lightning. There was a rotary prep sander mark under the finish in the quarter which I attempted to bridge by carefully color sanding and buffing. I did so but in the process I cut through the clearcoat. I guess I wasn't quite careful enough! I didn't streak the metallic but just kissed the basecoat. Looks like a light streak in the paint since the clearcoat is no longer there to deepen the finish. No one would ever notice it unless I pointed it out but it bothers the sh!t out of me. Since I'm a bit lax in the current BC/CC spot repair technology, could anyone please give me some insight on how to go about acheving an undetectable repair. BTW the color is Dark Shadow Gray poly. The area in question is around 1 1/2 X 6 1/2". Thanks in advance.

SS

 

[rex]

Unfortunately the only right way to fix it is to blend a little color over it and reclear the bedside.If you want to save the plastic bedrail,don't pull it when it's cold and squeeze the clip tabs with pliers.You can see the inner row up under the lip inside the bed but you can't get to the outer row.Some will snap off but if you're carefull you'll only lose one or two and can reuse it.Don't just snatch it off because you'll break the panel around the clip holes too.Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

 

[supersport]

Is it possible to scuff with 1500, compound beyond the affected area, shoot with blending clear and reclear within the compounded area? Possibility of using an air brush versus a spray gun? The area is that small! I was contemplating the addition of a beltline pinstripe busting into flames on the bedside similar to the '02 H-D edition stripes then clearing over them. This would cover the affected area as well. I interpret your response as that the newly applied clear will show a deliniated outline once cut down to pull a matching gloss.

 

[rex]

You could do that for a quick fix but it won't last.The spot you broke through will jump out as a discolored spot after clearing over it,if it's just a sliver on a character line it may camoflage in but out in a flat area you'll see it.You can blend the clear out and buff the edge and you won't see it but it will haze on the edge over time-like a year or less.Anytime you thin clear,like buffing that edge in,the clear has lost it's protective properties and starts to frost.You see it every day on cars where the the top surfaces look white and the clear is gone in spots.If I do have to pull a blend I hand compound the blend area and then 2000 it to where my clear will stop but inside the compounded area.Put one coat of clear on inside the sanded area and my second coat goes to the edge of the 2000 and then I burn it in with blending solvent.On small spots you can burn it in and not buff it if you take a little time but I haven't had any luck with large areas so I buff it out.You don't have to burn it in but it really cuts down on buffing.After you compound the blend you'll see a faint line around the new clear but as soon as you buff it with polish it'll dissappear-again just for now.A detail gun would be much better than an airbrush so you get quicker build.This way 3 coats with a 2coat clear should have your millage in line.Oh,that factory paint is thin stuff,a good sanding and buffing thins it fast and if you don't go through it could still degrade and frost out in time,you have to go real light on factory clear.

 

[supersport]

Thanks for the valuable input. I really don't want to pull all the trim off this brand new truck just to repair this small area. I know the right fix is what you originally suggested. Just thought someone might know of a short method. My experience with BC/CC is limited. Most of my work has been in straight topcoats. I dropped out of the trade as a full time job in the mid '80s. Now I do it as a hobby of sorts. Mostly vintage muscle car restos. Whats your take on doing the aforementioned stripe in Chromalusion and shooting the clearover the affected area before laying on the flames, then clearing over the custom work? I know it may frost out around the edges as you mentioned earlier. The paint being put out by the factories today is hardly acceptable IMO. I guess I'm just a fussy bastage.

 

[rex]

As long as the spot of clear is dry before you continue with the flaming you're fine,but let it dry like a week.The ideal thing to do would be lay out your flames to cover the spot and just clear the whole panel,then you don't need to screw around with the spot at all.If the spot is that small you can probably lay the flames out to cover or at least camoflage it.

 

[supersport]

Thanks for the enlightenment. I'll probably attack this thing this coming winter. I have to finish up a friends 18,000 mile '70 big block 'Cuda project first that's torn apart in my garage.