dinged tank

G

G0rdyb1ker

New member
Hi All

I have just picked up a tank to paint but it has a dent in one side where the bike fell against a lamp post. Anybody got an easy solution to pulling this dent out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

Gordy
 
N

newbie

Guest
Gordy,
I've got the same problem. I have a ding with smooth sides (no crease) but you can't reach behind it to pop it out because of where it's located. I also don't think suction could pull it out. I'm pretty sure, I'll have to have it filled, it's about 3 inches across. My question is, does an epoxy primer give a bodywork guy a good surface to adhere filler to? Also on the subject of epoxy primer, once it's cured, is there something to spray it with, just prior to basecoating so I won't have to sand it? Hope you don't mind me throwing my question in here also.
Thanks,
newbie
 
R

rex

New member
If you have access to a stud welder dent puller you can try that but if it's in a high crown area they usually don't work well without heat-the stud welder or heating with a torch means BOOM if it isn't flushed well.There was an old trick of pressurizing the tank and warming the area and tapping with a hammer but I never went thru the hassle of rigging up a system to pressurize it.The easiest way is fill it and melt out the high spots.

Newbie,the epoxy is the best bet,all you have to do is scuff or scratch it up to get the filler to stick if it's dried too long,which depends on who's epoxy you use.Don't trust adhesion promoters although I understand HOK's works quite well.There's nothing better than sand scratches to hold paint.On PPG's DP epoxy a good scuffing with a grey scuffy is sufficient.
 
B

Bornhard

New member
Hey Rex! "How do you prime a piece of metal?" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif


Hey Gordy, you should sand epoxy most of the time to make sure it's smooth and things are shapped correctly etc etc. This is where you can tell and adjust things.
What I do is spray down HoK Epoxy primer and let it dry. Sand it with 80-120 grit sand paper. It's hard and tough stuff, so that 80 isn't too hard on the surface. Then I lightly go up to the 120 and sand the surface again. After that I put a few sealing and covering coats of Ko-Seal in whatever starting base color you want it in (white, black, metallics etc).
 
R

rex

New member
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gifI see this is another one of those deals I'll live with for a while.It's alot better than some the wife have on me though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top