DP Question

[Stu]

I just got through priming my fenders with PPG's DP epoxy primer and I've got a couple questions.This is my first paint job and I just want to make sure I'm doing this right.First question,the painting seemed very slow going and also the primer was spattering on.I backed out the fluid control all the way and changed to a 1.6 tip from the 1.4 before I started the second fender.It went a little better but I still had to hold the gun about 3 inches from the work.I guess I was expecting a little smoother spray and ALOT more material.Is this how it is or am I doing something wrong? Second question is after spraying the finish it was far from smooth (especialy the first fender) will curing take care of this and how long should I let it cure before my base coat?The gun I'm using is a DeVilbiss HVLP Finishline and I had my compressor set at 23 lbs. I had a hard time with the regulator at the gun so I left it open and just set the compressor.Any advice welcomed,Thanks.

 

[BonesFX]

STU - Sounds like not enough air pressure. 23 lbs isn't that much, but all guns run different Lbs' - what does the manufacturer recomend for that model gun. I have a touch up gun thats an HLVP and I have to run about 40lbs, My priming gun is a standard gravity fed with a 1.4 tip and I set that at 35lbs. The PPG DP is extremly thick stuff. I have shot it straight but prefer to reduce it down to 5:1:1. I'm not sure of the number for the reducer, but your jobber should be able to hook you up with a Qt. of it. I would check your air-pressure first - sounds like the gun didn't have enough air to atomize the primer - it should lay-out pretty flat after it's shot -- Good Luck --- Bones!~

 

[nooshie]

I've had problems spraying primer too. To get better solutions I went on line to PPG. They have product information for all of there stuff. Each product sheet tells what presure to shoot, how to mix, and how long before you can sand. The paint store also has tech sheets for everything they sell and they are free.

Good Luck
Nooshie

 

[Scott M]

The DPLF likes to go on grainny, unless you give it a good wet coat. Plus, I always reduce mine 10% with laquer thinner, because I'm using a Sata NR95 with 1.3mm tip. Without the reduction it spatters like you mention through the smaller tip. Also, I bump up the air pressure 10psi above the recommended 43psi for this gun to 53psi, and also I turn the fan down 20% to get a tighter pattern. The second coat using the same procedure lays out smoother than the first coat.

 

[Stu]

Thanks for the tips...I think I'll try bumping up the pressure at the compressor and try practicing on some scrap sheetmetal before I spray any more of the bike.Thanks again. -Stu

 

[rex]

Yeah,turn up the pressure to 35-40lbs at the gun.You lose pressure through the hose so measure at the gun.If you need it straight for steel or to sand don't worry about the roughness,it's the way it sprays since it went lead free.For a sealer over paint or primer thin it down so it lays down and dries quicker.

Bones,please say that ratio was a typo.It should be 2-1- 1/2,but a full part of reducer is fine.Straight is 2-1.

The 'compliant' solvent to use in DP is DTV(?) 802 slow thinner but any DT reducers up to 895 are just fine.No cheapo or fast thinners should be used.

 

[BonesFX]

Rex - That was per oz's -- I mix mine 5 oz primer to 1 oz catylst to 1 part reducer - thats what the tech sheet says - maybe I'm using a different epoxy primer - Besides Math wasn't my best subject - Fractions and Ratio's melted my brain!

Bones!~