dust nibs and booth tips

slickpaint

New member
Hi yall', This is my first post but I have been painting cars for a living 15 years. I built my own downdraft booth with dual fans, one blows in from the ceiling and the other ****s out the floor. I have always used home style a/c filters on the ceiling intake, or makeup air. I once had some sticky spray, but kinda quit using that. Do any of you pros have some tips for getting cleaner jobs?. The little specks are killing me, seems even worse when the weather is cold, the air is dry and I have to do more work inside with the doors shut.. Thanks Bill
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Bill
Welcome to the forum.
Cold air creates more static electricity, especially on cold plastic parts.
One trick is to ground the car. Take a chain and hook it from metal on the car and lay it on the ground.
Another is to use some cleaner that helps eliminate static electricity
Water down the booth
Be sure and use a filter in line before the air comes through the gun.
Possibly use a filter inside the gun. Sometimes those particles are coming from the inside the gun and shooting on the surface.
Blow and wipe off whatever it is you are spraying before putting it in your booth. Then blow and wipe it with a tack rag. Then tac rag right before starting to spray.
Hope those help.
 

slickpaint

New member
All good tips taz, thanks. I bought some Devibless floor coat that says it will reduce dust specks in the air by 50% http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KgdtZIluGE&feature=related I believe it is a combination of procedures, blowing the parts out of the booth reduces one nib, wearing a paint suit eliminates another.. Don't rub on dry parts too much either, like rubbing a baloon on your shirt! As far as grounding, I used to have a little box that lit a light when you had a good ground and you would be surprised how difficult that can be. You know when you ground a body panel to use an electric pin puller the panel next to it is not grounded. I find my cleanest jobs are when I have the car on jack stands. It is extra work to raise it, It creates more grounding points. I do a lot of economy jobs and I have to move fast. Any more tips are welcome!
 

tomsteve

New member
also a good idea to clean the undercarraige and wheelwells good before starting. i like to take my leaf blower to all the jambs, under the hood, and undercarraige before i start shooting colors.
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
All good tips taz, thanks. I bought some Devibless floor coat that says it will reduce dust specks in the air by 50% http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KgdtZIluGE&feature=related I believe it is a combination of procedures, blowing the parts out of the booth reduces one nib, wearing a paint suit eliminates another.. Don't rub on dry parts too much either, like rubbing a baloon on your shirt! As far as grounding, I used to have a little box that lit a light when you had a good ground and you would be surprised how difficult that can be. You know when you ground a body panel to use an electric pin puller the panel next to it is not grounded. I find my cleanest jobs are when I have the car on jack stands. It is extra work to raise it, It creates more grounding points. I do a lot of economy jobs and I have to move fast. Any more tips are welcome!

I think you got them all covered. If you're still getting dirt after all that, it's got to be the booth or the area you are spraying in.
:bigokay:
 

Kong

New member
TAZ,

Actually it doesn't have to be the booth or the area your'e spraying in that is the original home of the dust. Your filters and booth can be clean as glass, wheel wells clean, floor and walls dampened, and grounds galore if you want them but you can still have nibs. That is because most of them are created right there at the gun, or at least that is what I have read. As I recall from an article I read two or three years ago (sorry, no link) the problem of nibs (presuming all the usual care is taken to attain a clean work area) comes from the rapid drying of the "flash solvents" and some paint immediately as the material leaves the air cap. They are, as I understood the article, essentially just another form of overspray. Of course there are things that float around in the booth or make it past the filter(s); I'm not saying that its all caused by the gun, but the thing I read suggested that most nibs are. The problem was described as being much worse in dry climates or on dry days. As I recall the solutions suggested were the next slower reducer (yeah, just what you wanted to hear in cold weather) and to lower the air pressure into the gun by a pound or two (once again, as agreeable as stepping on nails barefoot). My solution is less elegant; 2000p and a Makita 9227c.

On Edit: Now that I'm thinking about it they may have said something about static electricity being caused by the turbulance of the paint leaving the cap or at the interface of the energized paint/air mix with the still air.
 
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TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Actually, that was slickpaint asking the question.
I was just one that posted some ideas.
Looks like you meant for that post to me.
 

Kong

New member
Well, sort of to both of you. It was the last sentence in your previous post that caught my eye and reminded me of that article I had read. I wish I had kept a link to it, but to be honest I didn't let it concern me much because I'm a cut-and-buff sort of guy anyway.
 

Damian400

New member
Very interesting topic,In my opinion that you have also a good idea to clean the undercarriage and wheel wells good before starting. I like to take my leaf blower to all the jambs, Floor Removal Brisbane under the hood, and undercarriage before i start shooting colors.It is favorable for me.
 
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bogdan

New member
check you air hose, in cold weather they like to crack inside and spit out dust. Mount a small filer under the gun. Also over time dirt is building up inside the spray gun and like to spit out during the painting.
 
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