Epoxy Primer

[DaveK]

I generally use the Dupont URO primers but, its apparently not epoxy based. I thought it was cause, it has an activator mixed with it and it cost a fortune.

Can you sand epoxy primer as well as standard and do you need to use a sealer with it as well?? Should you use a regular surfacer primer as well??

I know this has been asked a billion times but, its still cornfusing. And most remarks are about PPG stuff and they are just pure butt heads in my town!!

Thanks
DaveK

 

[rex]

PPG is the only epoxy I use,sucks your guys are jerks.I don't know if other brands have the same properties though.It stays open for about 3 days,and almost everything sticks like glue.It sands like crap though since it's kind of soft from the long open time.For that reason it's not the best choice for a sealer but I've used it many times for one,whether I go right over the first coat over steel or come back later with it reduced down.It tends to soak in some as a sealer,really bad if you sandblast,epoxy and paint it-a few days later you can see the graininess of blasted steel.I still love it for the adhesion and corrosion protection over steel or aluminum.

 

[BonesFX]

I'm with ya REX --- I use the K-36 (think thats the right number) -- I have to let it sit over night before I wet sand or block sand -- PPG has a million different primers and sealers, but I don't have the shelf space or money for 3 or 4 different products so I told my jobber I need 1 product that works for fill - sealing and finishing -- I like this stuff - everything has its problems, ya just learn to work around them -- And Dave - -You might wanna take down a sample or picture of your work -- The guys I deal with weren't really upfront with me when I first started going there - Had something to do with the "Not For Sale To The General Public" Stickers on all of their products and I was just JOE PUBLIC!! -- I took a gas tank that I airbrushed to them to ask some "B-S" questions, just so they could see what I was doing with there products - and explained to them that I wasn't a "body-guy" and didn't know anything about priming and bodywork.... - After they saw what I could do with their stuff they've been nothing but Great to work with - and will answer any questions I have --- Give it a try - worth a shot === Bones!~

 

[John Pierce]

I've used the PPG DP401 epoxy with good results, my biggest gripe being it stays soft for a fairly long time -- you can sand it, but only after about a week or so.

The HOK KP-21 Epoxy primer shoots very much like the DP401, but you can sand it in a couple of days and it seems to get hard much faster.

Both of those epoxies are great on bare metal and either sealer or topcoats stick well on them although I like to go with a sealer too.

JP

 

[rex]

K36 is a great surfacer/sealer,but I think it isn't supposed to go over large areas of bare metal without being etch primed and bondo or putty really shouldn't be used over it.DP does sand like s**t but it's awesome for corrosion resistance over a bare metal and I like to do all my mud/putty work over it.Did they have oyu etch prime it first over bare metal?I've seen it let loose big time over large areas of steel unless it was really etched by blasting or sanded with 80 grit.

 

[DaveK]

Thanks...

I went down to the Dupont jobber yesteday and asked what they thought. Of course they said I should use what I have been, which is the etch and filler primers. I found another supplier of PPG. I have to give them a visit!! I don't want to use 2 products as well.

Thanks
Dave

 

[ezrider]

House of Kolor just released a combanation, epoxy based surfacer KD2000. i bought a gallon at the beguinning of the week, pretty thick stuff, you can reduce it up to 25% so you can shoot it how you perfer to. it sands alright, i have had to sand alot worse. My cost for the gallon of primer and a quart of catylist was about $110 not bad compared to the $65 PPG's NCP 250 was costing me a quart.