First painting attempt (noob)
- Thread starter tonybill
- Start date
I would think you could do this. You would add the image. Then just use somesort of 'candy' type paint (clear with dye in it). Then spray over the image.
Then clearcoat. This would make the image more subtle than if you did not add the candy.
I guess this is what you wanted to know ?!?
Then clearcoat. This would make the image more subtle than if you did not add the candy.
I guess this is what you wanted to know ?!?
chopolds
Member
I believe you can clear over a hydrodipped part, to give it extra protection. If so, I'd seal it up with some clear, and then you should be able to put any other paint "treatment" over it very easily and safely.
Taz, I'm surprised you never heard of ghost painting!
Actually, there are several ways I do it depending on what the customer wants.
The "real" way to do it, IMHO, is to lightly spray some clear, with a bit of interference (flip flop) pearl mixed into it. The trick is to do some test panels to be sure you have enough pearl on the surface to not be visible in some light, but to reflect the color pearl when the light hits it just right. Takes a bit of testing to do it, as different colors need different concentrations (or amount of coats) to get the effect just right.
Another version of ghosting is when doing candy, is to lightly tint the base coat either darker or lighter, and do your designs, then candy over it all to get a slightly different tint of the same color.
If doing it with regular paint, you can achieve the same effect by adding just a bit of white pearl, or extra metallic to the color to shift it a shade or 2 lighter, and then do your graphics.
I have pics of several versions of these ghost effects on my website.
Taz, I'm surprised you never heard of ghost painting!
Actually, there are several ways I do it depending on what the customer wants.
The "real" way to do it, IMHO, is to lightly spray some clear, with a bit of interference (flip flop) pearl mixed into it. The trick is to do some test panels to be sure you have enough pearl on the surface to not be visible in some light, but to reflect the color pearl when the light hits it just right. Takes a bit of testing to do it, as different colors need different concentrations (or amount of coats) to get the effect just right.
Another version of ghosting is when doing candy, is to lightly tint the base coat either darker or lighter, and do your designs, then candy over it all to get a slightly different tint of the same color.
If doing it with regular paint, you can achieve the same effect by adding just a bit of white pearl, or extra metallic to the color to shift it a shade or 2 lighter, and then do your graphics.
I have pics of several versions of these ghost effects on my website.
chopolds
Member
Masking....if there is any chance you may have to sand, whether it's from mistakes, blow throughs, or even residue from the masking tape itself, just put a light coat or 2 of a basecoat type clear (Intercoat clear) on your part first. Then scuff lightly with Scotchbrite pads, and proceed to masking and painting. You also need to do this if you are going over a pearl or metallic color.. tape might pull up the flakes. I even do this multiple times, if painting time is going to be long, or the next day, or it's a complicated design.
Pulling masking tape off: for the most part, you'll be using fast dry basecoat, lacquer, or intercoat clear to do graphics. They dry quickly, so just wait 15 min. or so and pull the tape, it will be dry. Thin, dry paint is brittle, and will break cleanly. The only time you want to try and pull tape off while the paint is wet, is when using slower drying enamels. This is so the edge has a chance to "heal", or settle down after pulling the tape. The softer, thicker enamels will bridge over the tape if left to dry too long, and you'll have problems removing it, unless you score the edge with a razor blade first.
Pulling masking tape off: for the most part, you'll be using fast dry basecoat, lacquer, or intercoat clear to do graphics. They dry quickly, so just wait 15 min. or so and pull the tape, it will be dry. Thin, dry paint is brittle, and will break cleanly. The only time you want to try and pull tape off while the paint is wet, is when using slower drying enamels. This is so the edge has a chance to "heal", or settle down after pulling the tape. The softer, thicker enamels will bridge over the tape if left to dry too long, and you'll have problems removing it, unless you score the edge with a razor blade first.
chopolds
Member
I always shoot the whole thing in clear, but that's the way I like to work. I then let it dry and scuff it later, to do my additional paining at my leisure. ANY time you plan on stretching out a graphics job past the "window" of the base, or clear, you need to clear it and sand it when you are ready to proceed.
Some paints will eventually dry in the can once it's opened, but most basecoats are useable for a long time, as long as the can is sealed. Even enamels will last a pretty long time, I had some Red Centari still viable after almost 20 years in the can!
The hardeners used to catalyze paints are another story. They quickly degrade once opened. Some brands go bad very quickly, either hardening up, or becoming useless while, others hold out pretty well.
Some paints will eventually dry in the can once it's opened, but most basecoats are useable for a long time, as long as the can is sealed. Even enamels will last a pretty long time, I had some Red Centari still viable after almost 20 years in the can!
The hardeners used to catalyze paints are another story. They quickly degrade once opened. Some brands go bad very quickly, either hardening up, or becoming useless while, others hold out pretty well.