Flame painting with pearl colors

I

issors

Guest
Ok ,the question I have is how do you guys get a clean tape edge using pearls or candy's when ghost flaming .I use mostly house of kolor products .Base coats are not a problem Ive seen some bikes painted on here that the flames are out line with a translucient color.I mostly shoot candy color for my base and use base coats for my graphics.
Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/think.gif
 
T

TAZ

Guest
The object is to keep the edges thin. I usually airbrush the ghost flames which makes them very thin to start with. I also use some straight toners (not HOK) with a tad bit of SG-100 to add 'body' to the pearl. Usually a couple passes with the brush is enough to really give the flames a nice ghost look.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
J

JAMMINJ

Guest
One of the most important things to remember when trying to achieve a clean tape edge is "less is more" The higher the film build is on the graphic, the greater the chances are of the paint bridging onto the tape. When the tape is removed it creates a jagged line where the bridged paint is torn. Like Scott, I use my airbrush or my Spot repair gun (Devilbiss SRi)to shoot the flames. When using pearls for flames, I like to pull the part off of the stand and rotate it to see the reflectiveness of the pearl platelettes. once I achieve a good even flow, I stop and pull the tape. This is also where contrast of colors comes into play. The more color it takes to create a contrast on the base color, the higher the film build and the more likely a jagged edged tapeline is to occur. Also make sure that you clean along the tape edge with grease and wax remover before spraying the flames, so that youre not painting the glue from the tape (blue fineline is bad for this). When removing the tape, use quick even pulls toward the flame (this makes a cutting action). Also make sure to clean the tape adhesive off of the flame paint edge before clearing (be careful the g&w remover will take off basecoat).
 
I

issors

Guest
Scott,
Ive used sg 100 before over marblizer as a bonding
clear.The toners you talk about are they from PPG or Dupont,also i use mostly the blue vinyl tape,it seems to create tight radius with ease.My small touch up gun is a Satta mini jet ,I do use this gun for most of my flame jobs ,I did one urethane job lucky the flames were getting outline. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Yes, I use the toners from the PPG Global system.

You may want to get you an airbrush instead of using the mini jet. The mini jet would be fine if you plan on spraying the flames complete, but for ghost flames, an airbrush is the best choice.
 
I

issors

Guest
What are some name brands on the air brush gun ,also what kind of tape do you guys use for your flame jobs, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 

LudicrousSpeed

New member
I have a Pasche double action airbrush, very affordable and it comes with three different size tips, needles and air caps.

Not the best gun by any means, but it does really nice work for the price. Around $50, I think. I go tmine from Hobby Lobby, but they sell them at eastwood, also, I think.
 
J

JAMMINJ

Guest
I use an Iwata Eclipse CS gravity feed for my ghost flames. It has a large fluid tip (.35mm) for pearls and metalics. It is not great for finelines or detailed artwork, but it's great for flames. If you are looking for an "airbrush gun" Tamiya has a pistol grip airbrush. Iwata also has a new gun(RG-6)that uses a .6mm fluid tip and is supposed to spray like an airbrush but it is not cheap, about $300.
 
I

issors

Guest
Ok,The information has been helpfull so far,what is the best tape to use ,I mostly use the blue vinyl, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

Jim

Member
For a long time,The 3m blue finline seemed popular which is what I use but,It doesn't seem to hold in corners as good as before so,alot of guys went to the green instead.
 
J

JAMMINJ

Guest
I have been using the blue 3M fineline for years but it seams like the adhesive has gotten worse over the years. I recently tried a new brand of tape called Proband. It is orange in color and you can get it from 1/16" up to 3/4". It seems to do a good job without leaving all of the glue behind like the 3M. It also doesn't curl up after a couple of weaks of sitting in the cabinet. It is quite a bit thinner than the 3M so it takes some getting used to. My advice is to try a few different brands and types, find one you like. Some guys out there still use good old 1/8" crepe paper tape and will tell you it's the best because it is what works for them.
 

hoss

New member
what do you use to take off that sticky stuff that the tape leaves behind? like the example of the 3m.
 
J

JAMMINJ

Guest
I use 3M general purpose adhesive remover. Grease and wax remover also works fine. The 3M adhesive remover is stronger than grease and wax remover and has a small spout so I can use a small amount on the corner of a rag to run along the paint edge after pulling the tape. Like I said though, this stuff is strong and it will take off basecoat. Don't use any of the waterbased prep solvents, they will not remove the glue left by the tape.
 

Burnt

New member
I have used Mineral Spirits for years to clean glue and other stuff. It is oil base and wont hurt the base coat. Just make sure its evaporated completly before you continue.
 
J

JAMMINJ

Guest
Whoops, I was out in the garage today and realised I gave you the wrong name for what I use on the glue. The name is actualy General purpose adhesive cleaner , not adhesive remover. 3M Part number is 051135-08984
 
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