flaming harley tins!

FiFdYnUtZ

New member
hi guys, im pretty new here ( http://www.custompaintforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=16523#post16523 ) and i had a few questions about an 03 harley davidson dyna wideglide tank set i am soon to be painting for a guy (primarily where to tape gas fill necks off, sealing from gas problems, and the airbrushing)

heres my process so far
-do any and all bodywork or filling that needs to be done so parts are straight (tank and fenders from bare metal)
-spray with dupont variprime lightly
-spray with dupont 2k filling urethane primer and wetsand with 360 grit
-spray with several coats of dark grey dupont premier sealer
^ i use a devilbiss gun for all of the above
-spray my base color (pearl metallic moss green) over all panels with 3 coats
-freehand long nice flames that cover the peices fully with 1/16 3m blue tape
-cover with 1 1/2in tape and use an xacto to cut out along the blue tape to expose the flames
-spray a pontiac bronzemist base on the flames
-use my airbrush to lightly fade the edges with some of the flame base mixed with silver pearl
-unmask and spray black dropshadows on the bottom edges of all the flames
-clean and tack off to prepare for clear
-spray several coats of clear
-put under curing lights to bake for 30-60 minutes moving the lights every 20min
-let sit overnight or longer
-wetsand with 1500 or 2000 grit paper and then buff and use swirl remover

does that sound about right?^^^ any help would be great! thanks!!!!
 

martin3294

New member
After you have sprayed your base colour and before you tape your flames, first of all put a coat or 2 of intercoat clear on, then sand off the shine to protect your base coat, lay your tape over this intercoat then any bleed throughs from your flames through your tape can be easily removed. Also any overspray or mistakes can be corrected too. I wouldn't use 1/12" tape to tape over the fineline tape. Rather use frisket tape or transfer tape, its quicker and cheaper.
 

hoss

New member
intercoat clear

hok sg100 and there is a new sg150 you can read about.


here is what i've read-

"The SG150 is made specifically as a pearl and flake Karrier.
The SG150 is unique in the sense that it can hold a flake in suspension better, help with orientation during srpaying, and help with the fixation/stability of the flake on the surface. It does this without being thicker and with good leveling. Some flakes still settle in the gun but not as quick.
It is more stable than SG100 in a building situation but can still be over applied. The trick is to put enough flake into the mix to achieve the desired effect in two, or three, coats. Beyond that things tend to get a bit chunky anyway when using the bigger flakes.
SG100 is still the prefered product for the tapeing, color let down, and KK work, that needs to be done.
With the biggest flakes,from us or Old School, some protrusion will occur, even with the SG150. The flakes are just so big it can't really be avoided. The build up, on jobs like this, should be done with a urethane clear."

lynch-kpk
 
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hoss

New member
i know your not adding flake to the clear, but the sg150 is for a higher build.

for your application sg100 is fine. the sg150 is just a little fyi. either will work
 

martin3294

New member
Yes sorry my typing error, I meant 1 1/2" tape too, you can cover up your tins with this then cut it out but it is slower than using transfer tape or frisket film, also using transfer tape is better as t is more transparent than the 1 1/2" so you can see the blue fineline tape underneath it. also the transfer tape is much wider than the 1`1/2" and covers bigger areas much quicker. But nothing stopping you using either method.
 

martin3294

New member
Forgot to mention the intercoat clear, you should always use an intercoat clear anyway over the top of metalic or pearl paintwork before taping any flames or graphics or you will run into problems with overspray and as well as you will leave tape marks as well as run the risk of lifting the paint when taking the tape off. These marks will show right through your clearcoat without the intercoat. SG100 is the best intercoat to use for graphics with normal paints and as Hoss sugested the 150 which has a higher build for flakes etc.
 
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