Flat black/matte black painting

SportriderBryan

New member
Lets start from the begining. I have been a painter for about 10 years. 5 years at dealerships and body shops and the last 5 as a hobby.

I painted my Interceptor a custom mixed red and black and just painted the frame, swing arm and other parts a silver that looks like polished aluminum. Well, I hate it. I want to paint it flat black or matte black, but I have never found a flat black that I think has any protective qualities. I don't want to worry about scratching easliy and I wwant to be able to clean it easily. Any ideas?
 

Slamin Sam

New member
Here is a way to do the flatwork. Do the paint job the same as you normally would, get it cleared, and perfect before you even mess with the flat part. Then use the ALSA soft feel clear. This stuff is not an additive, but an actual clear system that creates a micro texture that is naked to the eye but creates a flat finish, that also feels like hard rubber.
The best part, if you get some dust in it you can sand it out with some wet 1000 within one week of clearing. You can carefully sand the dust and or nibs out and the clear will flatten back out. Just be sure to spary it over clear, it does not like to stick to basecoats. It does take a while to cure, and while you can use a baking booth to speed the process, the best results are when you let it room temp cure for 24 hours. Oh, it can get expensive also. :freak: http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm

Sam
 

SportriderBryan

New member
Here is a way to do the flatwork. Do the paint job the same as you normally would, get it cleared, and perfect before you even mess with the flat part. Then use the ALSA soft feel clear. This stuff is not an additive, but an actual clear system that creates a micro texture that is naked to the eye but creates a flat finish, that also feels like hard rubber.
The best part, if you get some dust in it you can sand it out with some wet 1000 within one week of clearing. You can carefully sand the dust and or nibs out and the clear will flatten back out. Just be sure to spary it over clear, it does not like to stick to basecoats. It does take a while to cure, and while you can use a baking booth to speed the process, the best results are when you let it room temp cure for 24 hours. Oh, it can get expensive also. :freak: http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm

Sam

Cool thanks.

Has anyone tried out the POR 15 line of products? I've heard things and thought of going with them.
 

hoss

New member
you can get a single stage black paint that has a satin black to it. i've also heard about people putting flattening agent in the clearcoat. i've never tried either of them, but i've heard of them being done?
 

ruggs

New member
You can prep and paint the black as you normally would any base coat then flatten the clear to whatever degree of gloss your after. This will still give you the long term UV protection
 

SportriderBryan

New member
THanks guys. I ordered up some of the POR-15 Chasis black. It's supposd to turn out hard as a rock, non scratching and not UV reactive (wont fade). I'll let you know how it goes down and then after the summer if it faded or not.
 
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