Hey man,glad to see ya again.Unfortunately I still haven't cleaned them up and put them in service since my painter came back and had to go back to the bodyshop.I double checked mine though and they both have AV-115-EX tips and 496-D-EX needles.The AV-115-E-8 and 18 tips I haven't seen,so I don't know if it's newer than mine or was an option,but both mine are at least 10 years old.I'm thinking you have a more workable option than my setup.I have a 30 air cap on one and an 80 on the other and I'm guessing the 30 capped one was my clear gun but it won't spray the newer high solid clears.That's not saying yours wont because I'm not familiar with your tips and needle.I have no idea what the 58 cap is like but the 30 will atomize the best followed by the 45 and the 80 being the least.I know this sucks but you're going to have to experiment unless someone else here uses these.Before you play with the MBCs try the Binks,that's a pretty good gun so it might like the base or clear right from the start,then set up the MBC for the other.The base can be run through a somewhat large tip with some atomization,but the high solids clear need a smaller tip on the par of 1.4mm(whatever that crosses over to in inches) and needs atomized,probably the 30 cap with 45lbs of pressure or more if the 45 makes it look like you rolled it.The 45 was touted as the general purpose cap and was usually the one for primers.Try the Sharpe too,I've never liked them and never heard of the one you got but I'm sure it'll like one of the products.Don't let my dislike of them turn you off because some people swear by them.Whatever you do follow this advice.When I was still using the MBCs with the first generation of high solid clear I couldn't get quite enough atomization (it looked like it was rolled on and laid down about 1/2 way) so I had to hose on each coat.If this is the case you find yourself in you need to avoid the fast clears because they will pop for sure and try to keep your reducer a touch on the slow side but you have to be real careful of your overlaps,catching an area where you're coming across the top,side and another side like the top front corner of a car fender can slide easy.Also give longer flash times between coats,instead of 15 minutes I'd go 20 to 25.In one way it was nice because there was really 4+ coats going on in 3 so there was plenty to lose 2tone lines or have enough for a serious sand and buff,but it did suck.I think you can get a pretty good deal going with what you have now,it's just gonna be a pain finding which gun and MBC setup likes what.Sorry I couldn't be more help but I was about the only one in the area that used MBCs.Everyone else used the cheaper JGA,but I turned mine into a primer gun fast.The only thing that sprayed nice was old synthetic and acrylic enamel and lacquer,but the Binks7 was the lacquer gun in those days.
