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? for REX
- Thread starter crazycuda
- Start date
Like you I haven't found a lasting way.Glassing over DP sticks much better but still fails,the steel moves around more than the glass when it heat cycles.I haven't tried it but I've used JB Weld over DP on urethane bumpers in a pinch and they withstood a hit in the same spot without the repair failing.Kind of an expensive ordeal for a scoop though.3M's 8115 panel adhesive looks promising and I think would work but I haven't tried it.A friend tried it on his car but the front edge let loose.I think it's more his prep and butcher tactics than the product failure.This stuff is expensive too though,I think around $50 a tube and you need the 2part caulking gun to use it in.I don't think one tube will do a normal sized scoop though.,probably close to 2.On those front opening scoops I think it's best to leave a rivet in the front corners and when you grind the bond coat and bevel out the scoop's flange knock a little of the rivet head off.I got a little longer out of it this way but not much,all that air lifting the scoop pulls them off eventually.A cowl induction type scoop shouldn't be a problem at all and shouldn't need rivets.I pretty much gave up on these things anymore.When you say it's bubbling have you popped one to see what's underneath?Rivets will do it over time,that's why I hate using them but I figure that little bubble is better than the thing starting to lift and crack out.
have tried popping up the glass it appears that it has lifted off the dp. on the latest project. I think next time i am going to seam seal the inside of the scoop and see if it helps. (it;s one of my cars so i can ginnapig it.) I have found a company that makes a steel cowl scoop i might go that route and panel bond it to the hood and see how well that works just got to figure the $ issue.
Hmm,sounds like the DP was still a touch fresh where it bubbled.I used to brush it on with a little reducer before mudding and when I'd push it it would let loose,you know how that waiting stuff goes.I always used Duraglass for small holes I didn't weld since the fine strands would work into the holes the best.I'd put the pick end of my pick hammer in the hole and tap it with another to countersink it and fill it.I have had the hole crack out way down the road if it wasn't countersunk good,say close to 1/8".If you can reach the backside I would bridge tape over the hole so it mushrooms out around the hole in the back instead of getting the 'drooping t!t'.I haven't heard 'bondo glass' in a while.That's what I call my concoction of Duraglass and bondo mixed together.I'd make this for those butcher patch jobs on used cars and stuff they don't want to pay for.Sands easier and you don't get near as many of those baby pinholes that make you crosseyed finding them all.Works good on ground down weld seams too but you still should cover it with straight bondo or putty.
R
rickster
Guest
you might want to try duramax mix on thatscoop i used for replacing bed sides instead of welding spot welds its much sronger than spot welds an damn near bonds to anything,and it also there is no bubbling like welds can have