Hanging Doors, fenders, etc->Good?

5

56_Kruiser

New member
I read in the tips forum a quick comment about it being risky if you hang parts to paint, particularly if spraying pearls.

I will be spraying a car with HOK Shimrin 2 pearl. Been planning on hanging the hood and trunk in particular, but considering hanging the doors as well. That would likely result in two painting sessions. (I'll be renting a booth, haven't seen it yet, and not sure about size).

So, I'm not leaning toward not hanging. I've always struggled a bit with the jambs when things are mounted on the car.

Thoughts/suggestions?
 
TAZ

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
I don't recall anything about not hanging parts.
Sounds like you are trying to get the insides and outsides done at the same time.
I normally just do the cut in, mask up that side, then do the outside with the rest of the car (if there is enough room or you have 2 spray booths).

Where are you renting the booth from?
 
5

56_Kruiser

New member
Your comment wasn't really about 'not hanging parts'. It was more along the lines of it being risky if painting pearls. The post is here.

I called and talked to the HOK Tech guy that I have a phone number for and he said the same thing. I've pretty much decided to not hang parts.

I have always done what I presume you mean by 'cut in'. But then I always end up with paint ridges from the paint at the borders of the inner door jamp, and trunk jambs. I don't like that.

Is there a way to do this without ending up with those edges?

Oh, by the way, renting the paint boot here. In fact, I plan to work with him to tow the car out; mount on a rotisserie; media blast the under side; and get POR-15 on it. Same on teh frame. Paint in the boot will come later. I'm excited about having this facility available.
 
TAZ

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Okay, yes, I remember that. It's basically pretty risky to paint a car apart with some colors. Sometimes the panels will not match exact...close, but not exact.

Not really a way I know of without getting the ridge or unless you take it where the outer skin is folded over and ends which normally is about 1/4" in on the underside. So this would need to be recoated when spraying the outside. So your edge of paint would be at the edge of where the skin ends.
 
chopolds

chopolds

Member
I do a lot of custom painting, and I always spray the car whole. No pieces separate. For example, the paint lays differently if you spray a horizontal vs. a vertical surface. So a hood "hung up", will have a different pearl texture, which equates to not matching. Custom paints, esp. Candy, 3 stage anything, and pearls, can be slightly different colors depending on how close you are, how fast your passes, overlap, etc. So painting parts separately increases your chances that they will not match when put back together, even a set of skirts placed next to the quarter panel, I've found, sometimes will not match in color or texture.
Doing jams and edges, for me, is a ton of extra work on a custom job. But anyone spending the time to do a Candy job, with the expense of labor and materials, needs to do thing right to succeed. I've got my way of doing it, but I'm sure I'm in a minority.
 
5

56_Kruiser

New member
All of that makes perfect sense.

Question on jambs. I'm considering using 3M Aperture tape. Does that work well? Would a first time user have risk of messing it up?

I've been surprisingly successful with my candy jobs, but never overly satisfied with the jambs.

Other than the 3M, what's your recommendation on painting jambs?
 
chopolds

chopolds

Member
I usually don't recommend my way of doing things like this. Lots of times I get criticized for wanting to do too much work, for being too 'anal' about things, or doing things the hard way.

Since you asked: After the whole car is in final primer, and ready to hang all the sheetmetal, I final sand, and paint the jams in the color I'm using for a base, say silver for candy or white for pearl. Lock it down with an intercoat clear (NON catalyzed). Now assemble the car, final sand it, paint it. DO NOT mask the jams and edges! Usualyl, after shooting the last coat of base color, I take a Scotchbrite pad, and clean up the excess base in the jams and edges.
After the outside is painted, and letting it cure for a week or so, but before I sand and buff, I remove the doors (the only way to get jams looking great!). I have a floor jack I converted to a door holder, so I can do the job by myself. I drill the hinges, with a 1/8" drill bit, so I can insert a 1/8 welding rod in them when I re-assemble, and have them in the exact right place. You can do this with the trunk and hood, if you like, but usually I spray the underside of the trunk first, then tape it off, not as critical because of it's sharp edges.
As for the painting...the jams are already in base color. Sand the intercoat clear, being careful not to disturb the candy color that fogs its way into the jams. You can lightly Scotchbrite them to scratch them up for paint adhesion. Use those fogged edges to blend your color into the jam. I use the same candy paint, but add candy concentrate into it, so I don't have to put on the same amount of coats to achieve the same color. You don't want too thick paint on your edges! Even if the color is a bit "off", darker or lighter, it usually doesn't show in the jams, but get it as close as you can. After getting your candy color in, back tape off the body and clearcoat the jams. Any little bit of clear that makes it's way onto the body ( and you want this, so the jams are clean right up to the edge of the body) will get sanded off when you sand the body to buff it out.
 
5

56_Kruiser

New member
chopolds...no criticisms from me, just appreciation.

I'll be digesting this. Will likely post another question or two when I get closer.

BTW...Do you by any chance have a chopped Oldsmobile? :haha:
 
chopolds

chopolds

Member
Ahhh, youngsters! Built it in 81-2, drove it all over the country from 83 to 2003. Needs a complete resto now!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top