Help, In over my head!

[tiller2nv]

Im in the middle of this job on my truck and I think I got in over my head. I just got done with the first set of flames and I only have 24hrs to clear and I dunno if Im going to make it! Can I just clear the first set of flames? Or do I have to clear the whole truck? Im going to be adding more flames in green but I need to save my spot. Man this is a TON of work! Must respect to you guys!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/fire.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tonofbricks.gif

 

[Austin]

If your going to add more flames I would apply an intercoat clear (clear base coat), so you can lightly scuff the surface to give you more work time. If you scuff your color without the intercoat clear you will very likely damage it. You could spray on a regular clear on too, but it costs alot more and isn't necessary unless your trying to smooth them out. Good luck man..look'n good
Austin

 

[myfamiliacc]

You should clear between paterns. Intercoat clear is the best, but regular clear works fine too, and yes that job is looking great /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif

 

[Jim]

If you give it a couple of coats of regular clear,you can 600 the edge almost flat(don't try to lose the edge completely or you'll bust thru it with only two coats) and do you next layer,It may cost a little more but,when your all done,it will be well worth it.no edge and slick as glass.

 

[robert.tallon]

No matter what you do, you'll always be better off to clear what you have first. The positives far outweigh the negatives. I've done many a flame job and made to many mistakes trying to cut corners and be perfect. With custom work you need to remember two things. One is, that it's going to be alot of work. Secondly, it's always better to spend that little extra and make sure things are done right the first time.

 

[tiller2nv]

Well heres the thing I want eveything flat and I want to hide the lines but wouldnt it be better to do intercoat, do my second set then clear then sand and get rid of the edge /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif Why do it twice? Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Jim]

The way i understand, intercoat is thinner than reg. clear.It's great to use if you can't clear within the clear timeline however, if you make a mistake and try to wipe it off ,odds are it's gonna come off with the thinner.Regular clear would be more durable in that aspect.If you think you can do the other flames without a mistake,go with the intercoat clear,tape,spray your flames and move on.Either way,you should spray the whole panels with the flames.

 

[tiller2nv]

[ QUOTE ]
The way i understand, intercoat is thinner than reg. clear.It's great to use if you can't clear within the clear timeline however, if you make a mistake and try to wipe it off ,odds are it's gonna come off with the thinner.Regular clear would be more durable in that aspect.If you think you can do the other flames without a mistake,go with the intercoat clear,tape,spray your flames and move on.Either way,you should spray the whole panels with the flames.

[/ QUOTE ]
Ok thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[rex]

If the temp has been 70 or less walk out now and intercoat it,you're pushing the time.I say this because after 24hrs (at 70) you need to scuff to continue and the intercoat protects metallics and pearls on the scuff.If you want to relay another set you should topcoat clear and sand to level the tape edge,otherwise it'll show in the next set.You can do it in intercoat clear but it's not worth it to me.If oyu're over the timeframe try a gold(or brown) scotchbrite,they're not as coarse as the grey.

 

[tiller2nv]

Well I ended up clearing it. This was my first car/truck its a lot harder then cycle parts! Ive learned that the side parts you cant bomb on the clear /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif I ended up getting a few runs on the right fender and right door. These were the first parts I cleared. I took a look before I went on to the hood and noticed some runs! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tonofbricks.gif. Cut back on the clear and the rest turned up sweet. Ive spent the night trying to sand out the runs. I got them out pretty much but I think I might have to redo the flames on that side. I got down into the base in a couple spots. I hope I can just touch it up with the airbrush. I was prerty mad at myself that I got the runs on the right side. But when I looked at the hood and left side it made me feel like atleast something went right. Oh well I guess that just painting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/headbutt.gif Thanks again guys for the help!

 

[Jim]

Tiller,Don't feel bad,I'm in the same boat.A few tanks,some touch ups,a sh!t load of test panels and one car.you certainly can appreciate the other guys after you do your first big job!If you didn't run it and try to sand it out,look how good it came out.Looks good!My problems are dust,if I didn't have to sand so much ,I would'nt of busted thru anywhere.Then you have overspray,rub thru from trying to fix it,runs etc.If we get good gun set up,good spray technique,and a dust free enviroment,we'd be miles ahead,all in due time I guess.I laugh now when people say"all you have to do is paint it"They have no idea! Keep up the good work,jim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[rex]

Damn guys,I'm having flashbacks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crap.gifHere's a few tips to prevent breakthroughs:

1. Stay off the edges
2. Use the razorblade trick on runs (you'll have to earn this one and search the site)
3. For dirtnibs or the razored run wrap a piece of 1500 on a flat paintstick or hard block and JUST level it,then take the 1500 out with 2000 or finer to buff.
4. For dry spots,light ones can be melted with a wool pad and something along the lines of 3Ms Microfinishing compound.For the knarly ones that have enough clear there just 2000 it out and lightly buff-remove just enough to fix but no more.

Might help,might not,that's an area like bodywork that requires a 'feel'.

 

[onelowhoe]

Some old schoolers will say, if you didn't run it you weren't putting it on wet enough. I like to live by that rule. The wetter I put my clear on, the flatter it lays. Just have to find that sweet spot right before it starts to run. Good luck and see ya on the other forums!

 

[myfamiliacc]

[ QUOTE ]
Some old schoolers will say, if you didn't run it you weren't putting it on wet enough. I like to live by that rule. The wetter I put my clear on, the flatter it lays. Just have to find that sweet spot right before it starts to run. Good luck and see ya on the other forums!

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif Aint that the truth. I rather spend some time wetsanding and buffing a small run, then the whole car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drink.gif

 

[rex]

But what about those big runs that pop up?The little ones are nothing,how about those that flow on down into a nasty?Gotta learn to control the bad spots.

 

[tiller2nv]

[ QUOTE ]
But what about those big runs that pop up?The little ones are nothing,how about those that flow on down into a nasty?Gotta learn to control the bad spots.

[/ QUOTE ]
Yep, things are going much better now! The side is fixed! Now I have to sand it down and let her dry so I can add the other flames. TONS of work but in the end I think it will pay off. Thanks for the help guys!