Help with HOK!!!!!

[gpracer15]

Ok I will be painting my Harley project in the future and I need help deciferring HOK's system. I am new to HOK paints.

I want to go from the initial steel fender to final clear so I need quantity, reducer, hardner etc....

I painting tank, fenders, and frame all in a kandy green, then adding purple Kandy flames on the tanks and fenders...

Epoxy primer on metal surface? components?
Kandy is mixed with? ratio?
Base coats mixed reduced with? ratio?
Clear mixed with? ratio

I usually paint with Diamont, 50/50 for bases with a med reducer and I use a fast dry clear at 3:1 ratio. The fast dry clear is ready to sand in 5 hours and I love it cause its real hard to run it, ha ha.

Im thinking:

1-Quart clear
1-quart green kandy
1-quart purple Kandy
1-quart silver base
1-quart for base under purple (undecided color)

Thanks

 

[BonesFX]

G -

Your gonna need a quart of everything you've posted. Plus Primer/Sealer and Reducers and catylst.

For you primer or sealer I can't help you with the HOK line - I use PPG Epoxy Primer and reduce it down and use as a sealer - On top of that I will do any minor bodywork with a 2 part glazing putty. After that I mix up more Epoxy Primer and shoot it full strength without any reduction to "build up". If I'm lucky enough I can go straight to wet sanding wih 400 - 600 (depending on the base color/type) and base coat, if I see a few bad spots in the body work (slight waves...) I'll dry sand and block sand by hand with 150 - 220 and then prime again.

For the HOK Products:

1. Shimmrin Base - Mix 2:1 - 4 pieces would be about 20 oz after reduction (you might need to mix more for the frame) Follow the directions on the can and you won't go wrong - 3 coats should do it and all paint is some what transparent so make sure you get into all the nooks and crannys.

2. Kandy Coats - The regular UK Candy's need to be mixed with reducer and catylst - For reducer I use the HOK RU-310 - this is their fast reducer and it works great on small parts. The catylst for UK is KU-100. The mix for the whole thing is 2parts Candy : 1 part catylst : 1 part reducer. The color chips in the HOK Book are shot with 5 coats. Remeber that candy is like shooting clear - you have to wait for it to flash... before adding your next coat.

2-A. Kandy intensifier - - You can use this and mix it with SG-100 for a stonger depth of candy with less coats (good for flames to keep that edge down) I've used it 2 times and my only complaint was that it didn't seem as "deep" as regular candy - but its a give and take world - my paint edge was pretty low.

3. HOK Makes a couple lines of Clear - I used to use the UFC-40 which was their best clear for D.O.I. and it buffed out great. Unfortunetly the no longer carry it and replaced it with a comp clear UFC-35 which in my opinion (which doesn't mean much) is junk. I used it for more than 9 months and my biggest complaint would be the thickness of coats were to thin and it buffed out terrible -- I have since switched to PPG Global which is a 50% solids and I love it -- If you go with the UFC-35 it is mixed 2:1:1 - and you use KU-150 catylst

4. Reducers - HOK has slow, medium and fast reducers - I use the fast RU-310 for bikes and have shot it when it 90 degrees in my garage - you do have to be careful with solvent pops, but I never had a major problem with them.

HOK makes some great stuff - as I mentioned above there are a few products that I don't care for - but all in all its good.. (everyone has their pro's and con's about what they use) You'll have to try it yourself to make your own mind up - -after all thats what matters!!! -- Peace and Good Luck!!

 

[John Pierce]

Buying a Quart of each of the HOK products will do the job for you, but you probably don't really need that much for one bike (depending on what you are gonna do). For example, if you are just gonna kandy some flames, you will have a bunch of paint left. also, 3 coats of Primer sealer on a tank and fenders will only take about 1/2 quart.

You might look at Innate's DIY Cycle kit if this is the only bike you are gonna do -- it's pretty complete and even comes with sandpaper, mixing cups, strainers, etc.

Innate DIY cycle kit

You could probably get away with buying the "complete cycle kit" and just buying some additional Kandy green to supplement painting your frame.

If you buy a quart of everything you are gonna use, plus all the sanding and prep materials, expect it to run about $500

JP

 

[BonesFX]

"BC" is for the kandy base - I was refering to the UK Kandy itself - it is mixed with a 2:1:1 ratio with catylst and reducer -- Bones!~

 

[John Pierce]

Sorry, but Bones is right. This comes straight from the House of Kolor tech manual sitting in front of me.

KBC is the "Kandy Base Coat" which is part of the Shimron family and uses regular reducer. It says in the manual this "mimics a Kandy finish". It is not a true Kandy and although they look nice, it's not the same.

UK is "Urethane Kandy" and it is a premixed, catalyzed Kandy which is essentially a catalyzed clear with Kandy Koncentrate premixed. It mixes 2:1:1 with UK/KU-100/reducer. It is not single-stage; it requires clear to be sprayed over the top. True Kandy jobs are always referred to as 3 stage.

KK is "Kandy Koncentrate" which may be added to either SG-100 Interclear or a catalyzed clear.

The Kandy Base Coat (KBC) is easier to apply, but it won't look quite as "rich" as either the UK or KK.

JP

 

[John Pierce]

The benefit to using KK is you can mix your own, but that requires a degree of "experimentation". UK is a little easier since you don't have to mix it if you can find the color you like.

I have found the "color chips" book from HOK invaluable... their stuff really does come out looking like the chips

JP

 

[DDG]

The KBC's are easier to spray but do not look as good as a true candy job. With the KBC's you are also limited to the effects you can do over the base, metal flakes, pearls , etc.
Since the KBC's are toners and metallics intermixed there is not alot of depth. Don't get me wrong, they look really good but it's just not the same. I see you guys arguing about the clearing, why? You gotta clear the UK's too. The UK don't mimic a candy finish, they ARE a candy finish. And you're right, you can achieve a very rich color with KK's. It all depends on painters preference. I don't know why you say using SG-100 and KK's is easier than using UK's. They're both candies and equally difficult to spray. I just sprayed my brothers bike with a Cinder red base a dusting of blue pearl and 5 coats of Burple candy. My brother loves the color, something I couldn't get with KBC's. And the KBC's are good for areas like door jambs and small parts that may be difficult to get a good candy finish on, or areas that don't need a great finish, inside the trunk perhaps.
So use what you want when you want, it all depends on the effect, experience and how much work you really want to do.
Dirt