Help with painting motorcycle frame

[mrbojangles]

I'm rebuilding my old trusty 92 Honda nighthawk from the ground up. I have the frame ready but not sure what the best and most economical way to go. The frame has the original paint which I believe is baked enamel plus a second coat of a crappy spray paint job. There's a lot of welding spots that regular sanding can't get to. I figure I can get it sandblasted fairly cheap.
My big questions are after its blasted and cleaned with alcohol would standard etching primer from a rattle can be fine? Also, is the paint from the auto parts store going to be ok and a few coats of clear coat?
I just don't want to end up with flaking paint down the road and powder coating is a tad too expensive for my blood.
Thanks for any help

 

[TAZ]

I would think sandblasting would cost $100- $150 or so. Why not just sand that old spray can paint off, or as much as you can, and just repaint it.
If you're looking as cheap as possible and not looking for a good quality job, you might as well go that route. OR, take that money that you were going to have it sandblasted and apply it toward professionally painting. Even with a single stage paint would be better than spray can. You would just need to do all the prepwork do save you some $.

 

[chopolds]

I like to blast bike frames, gets everywhere you can't reach by hand. As for paint, without any spray equip. I'd go with etching primer in a spray can, then get some single stage paint mixed up in a spray can, the one where they put the hardener in it, and you break open the hardener, then shoot it. Costs a bit more, but the paint is better!

 

[JT Airbrush]

If you don't have a spray gun, compressor, etc., you can use a rattle can products from Spray Max. They sell 2k urethanes primers and 2k clears in an aerosol can. As far as paint, Coast Airbrush sells House of Kolor in aerosol cans. This is all professional grade paints in rattle cans. I'd stay away from the stuff you see in the auto parts stores.

 

[TAZ]

There you go, the best of both worlds, you can still get catalyzed paint and still spray it from a spray can.

 

[mrbojangles]

Awesome info, much appreciated. Just found a local place that does memorials. The guy there will sand blast it for 80 bucks.
I called local auto body shops or any paint shops but they all want over 350 depending on color, May be more if it's red. The powder coat guy wants 600. Seems a bit much for a frame especially if all the prep work is done.
This is no showroom bike so I think I can get a decent look from some of the above mentioned spray cans. Thanks again!

 

[mrbojangles]

Just browsing the web for paints and came acrossa company called plutonium, seems like they're pretty popular. It's acrylic lacquer and pardon my ignorance but I have no idea what that means. Prices are fair too. Will this work ok?

 

[mrbojangles]

Awesome info, much appreciated. Just found a local place that does memorials. The guy there will sand blast it for 80 bucks.
I called local auto body shops or any paint shops but they all want over 350 depending on color, May be more if it's red. The powder coat guy wants 600. Seems a bit much for a frame especially if all the prep work is done.
This is no showroom bike so I think I can get a decent look from some of the above mentioned spray cans. Thanks again!

 

[chopolds]

Lacquer used to be used on cars before 1985 or so, GM vehicles. And it was the paint of choice for doing custom paint jobs. But in the end, is has much less chemical, and abrasion resistance, than today's urethanes, and enamels. It can be used, it is easier to spray, and dries almost immediately, so doing it outside is not a problem. But it is thin, so lots of coats are needed, it gets brittle with age, and really needs to be sanded and buffed for the best finish, not easy on a bike frame!
Still recommend getting those paints that you can "activate", they will give you the best gloss, out of the can, and hold up as well as a bodyshop job, because it is catalyzed, just like a shop would use.