HOK and PPG Compatibility

[alienboy]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gifDoes anyone know (or has anyone tried) to shoot HOK UC-35 over PPG 2021 clear? I ran out of the PPG on a project. I am planning on wetsanding the PPG, lay a few graphics and pinstriping then clear with HOK UC-35....is this asking for trouble or should I stop being so cheap and buy the ppg???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crap.gif

 

[TAZ]

Cheap...that is about all I use these days is UC-35. I got tired of the PPG clear drying too slow and solvent popping. This was a few years ago. This was also the Global clear. Maybe they corrected these non user friendly problems since then.
Anyway...
Shouldn't have a problem, especially since the PPG clear is dry. It would be like taking a car in, not knowing what the factory paint is, resanding it and reclearing. It doesn't matter what the base clear (PPG) is since it is already cured.
Stick with the "less expensive" HOK UC-35/KU-150 Hardener
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif

 

[John Pierce]

I have used UC-35 and UFC-35 over 2021, 2042 and 2082 with no problems...

As Scott said, the UC-35 is much cheaper and is less prone to solvent popping... It is also very durable after curing.

JP

 

[Austin]

If your using Global with out a bake booth you should use D893 or D8101. The other clears (D894 and D890) are designed for a "bake" cure, either a booth or a short wave lamp to get surface temp up to 140*.
Austin

 

[rex]

As Scott said you won't have a prob,and he's dead on with PPG clears-I use them alot and you just can't add more than one extra coat without causing a pop problem or waiting so long between coats that if you sand through the last coat it leaves a ring between coats of clear.I only use the PPG on a straight foward job or I throw 3 coats down for leveling and give it a few days to cure before the reclear so I can level out grafix and the pop gets sanded out anyway.I'm only using PPG because it's what I use everyday at work and get it at cost,otherwise I'd have the UC35 stocked up.Also on the compatability issue,the PPG DT reducers and DBC 500 clear(SG100 equivolent)work fine in the HOK basecoat line but I wouldn't trust them in the catalized products unless it was in a pinch and you used the reducer from the start.

 

[14424]

Rex, I just had a major lifting problem when I put PPG DBU over some HOK white base coat. I posted the whole thing in the flames section if ya want to read it and reply? The title is "Lifting problems"
Thanks, Jim

 

[Bornhard]

I started out using more expensive Dupont clears and it sprayed alright, but it did solvent pop when it was sprayed a little thicker. I was surprised HoK UC-35 was a bit cheaper, so I tried it out. I've used it faithfully for over a year now and it lays thick to burry graphics better and the shine is show quality.

I just tried some Valspar clear (free sample) the other day and I swear it's just UC-35 in a Valspar lable. I sprayed a car fender down with 3 medium coats, let dry 24 hours and wet sanded with 320 aggressively to see if I would sand through to the base coat. Not a single problem. Now it's time to lay out the design.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eekout.gif

 

[rex]

Sh!t Jim,I keep forgetting the DBU is still around,I'm guessing the reactive reducer will raise hell with anything other than PPG's stuff.I use DBC only and HOK basecoats aren't a prob there.Thanx for pointing that out.