hok
- Thread starter hoss
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hoss
New member
why am i wonderin'? why don't i ask the guy in the store? cause the only way i can get house of kolor is ordering it on the net, and i haven't found the spot on the site that tells me what i need to order w/ the sg100 and the kandi paints.
does anyone know where i can find this information?
does anyone know where i can find this information?
Not sure what you are using, but this is what I have used.
SG100 and any regular base coat (like orion silver) is reduced 2parts paint, 1 part reducer (I use RU312 which is the slow reducer). I paint in a paint booth if you paint in a garage you might want to use a fast-or-medium reducer.
If you are using a Urithane Kandy then the mix ratio is 2 parts Kandy, 1 part KU100 hardener, 1 part RU 312 reducer.
As stated earlier they have more than one reducer based on temp and speed 312 is the slow. I don't know off hand the other #'s but all the reducers will start with "RU".
Hope this helps alittle.
Austin
BTW you will also need to clear over the kandy. SG100 is NOT a clear coat. It is a clear base coat and is not a final topcoat.
SG100 and any regular base coat (like orion silver) is reduced 2parts paint, 1 part reducer (I use RU312 which is the slow reducer). I paint in a paint booth if you paint in a garage you might want to use a fast-or-medium reducer.
If you are using a Urithane Kandy then the mix ratio is 2 parts Kandy, 1 part KU100 hardener, 1 part RU 312 reducer.
As stated earlier they have more than one reducer based on temp and speed 312 is the slow. I don't know off hand the other #'s but all the reducers will start with "RU".
Hope this helps alittle.
Austin
BTW you will also need to clear over the kandy. SG100 is NOT a clear coat. It is a clear base coat and is not a final topcoat.
hoss
New member
i was just going to buy the uc35 kit. what do you recomend?
I was looking at primers, and i'm going to get the kp21 epoxy kit. i read on a previous post that the epoxy needs to be primed over again with regular primer before the base is applied? if so, the other primmers call for a hardner, is that just the ku100 stuff too?
I was looking at primers, and i'm going to get the kp21 epoxy kit. i read on a previous post that the epoxy needs to be primed over again with regular primer before the base is applied? if so, the other primmers call for a hardner, is that just the ku100 stuff too?
Just so you know if you can get HOK from a local jobber I would recomend getting the RU reducers local. If you order them mail you will get hit with a haz-mat charge, the haz charge they hit me with was like 20 bucks extra just for the reducer, everything else was fine.
Austin
Austin
Another source for HOK is Auto Body Depot located on the west coast. They ship quickly and offer good service. I haven't tried HOK yet, so don't know how their price's compare with other retailers. A quick question:I was always under the impression that Epoxy Primers were not suppose to be sanded before top coated. I use PPGs DP line, and it would be nice to knock down the orange peel before base coat. I bought a primer gun, but it still goes on like gunite.................Mo
With the DP what you might want to try instead of sanding is to add reducer to thin it. When you spray DP as a sealer it should be reduced. Or just use it on your bare metal first then use an actual sealer before base coating. I used to use DP, and I thought it was th sh*t, but since I've been using a sealer its amazing how much better it lays down. Don't get me wrong I'm not saying DP is a bad product, but for sealer I think there's better options.
Austin
Austin
KP21 or any other brand of epoxy is used to prevent rust.Thats why you put it on bare metal first!It's pretty expensive though.Another good thing is that it sticks to just about anything.I always sand KP21,PPG's brand (DP) may say not to ,I never used it.When I need reg. primer,it's always a 2k,I like "painter's pride" brand,It's cheaper but works great.don't ever use laquer primer for anything!,it sucks!(adhesion problems) I once mixed the wrong shit in my paint and it never dried,I was able to wipe the whole thing down with laquer thinner and never went thru the primer,try that with laquer primer.You can use the kp for the Durango or use an adhesion promoter then a 2k,either way,make sure you clean it good with a wax and grease remover first,then scuff pad or sand it to ruff it up a bit.(unless you get it preprimed)New plastic parts have a mold release on em(unless it's preprimed) so,clean it real good or nothing will stick.If your talking about the bumper cover,it's plastic,not fiberglass but the same applies for fiberglass.
For those that don't know,On bare metal,you can use an etch primer,then a 2k over that.Epoxy just does both jobs better! also,you can use one brand of primer and another paint and another clear but,don't swap activators or reducers until you know what will work and never experiment on a customers job (unless it's a freebee)
Jim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif
For those that don't know,On bare metal,you can use an etch primer,then a 2k over that.Epoxy just does both jobs better! also,you can use one brand of primer and another paint and another clear but,don't swap activators or reducers until you know what will work and never experiment on a customers job (unless it's a freebee)
Jim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif
Acually, at the PPG training center in Eagan MN, said metal etch works better than epoxy on bare metal in salt tank testing. Many people argue both ways but when the manufacturers training rep tells me that, I believe him. For best results he said use metal etch on bare metal first then epoxy over that. The main advantage of the epoxy is adheasion. (which is why many people use it as a sealer. Which if you read the p-sheets is fine, but they recomend reducing it down). The problem they say when using it as a sealer is its faily thick and slow drying. So you can have orange peel, and the main issue is possible solvent pop or die back in the gloss due to not letting the epoxy flash long enough.
Austin
Austin
Then I assume it is allright to sand it before before blowing on base coat. Sometimes I'll spray K-38 to feather out a surface that has not been taken down to bare metal, sand it ,then use DP as a sealer coat. But I would like to sand it before applying base.( DP that is )What the hell, I normally wet sand the clear before buffing, so it all comes out in the wash anyway...............Mo
T
TAZ
Guest
Looks like another HOK price increase. I believe this is the third already this year and I think PPG has went up two or three times.
Be nice to be like HOL and do a price increase across the board, then with the click of the button, instant millions!!!
I remember paying $93 for a gallon of UC-35, now I'm paying $102.30
Be nice to be like HOL and do a price increase across the board, then with the click of the button, instant millions!!!
I remember paying $93 for a gallon of UC-35, now I'm paying $102.30
OK,my bad,I thought you were talking about the bumper cover but ya,you can use the KP just the same.2K is just a primer with an activator/hardener or just ask for a 2-part primer.Whichever brand you buy,it'll show the activator with it,just like clear coat.You don't have to wait 24hrs like epoxy.Painter's pride is around $25 for the qt+ activator and Dupont is like $40-45 a qt.I don't thin it.I don't see a differance between the two so I go with painters pride.I also love thier wax and grease remover,about $7 works great! I guess I'm pretty lucky,I have a body shop supply house 20 minutes away,He has anything you would ever use in a body shop,he mixes Dupont but will get me anything,and I can get HOK and PPG locally.I never tried PPG though.I would think all three are about the same in quality but,I don't want to get into that!I do know for a fact all the body shops are looking to cut costs and are ordering more generics(so to speak)Recently I switched to Extreme brand clear,half the price and so far so good but only time will tell.Well,enough rambling.Jim_