I'm useing Dupont 7900s,they reccomend two coats so,that's what I've been doing.Was just wondering if anyone actually follows that reccomendation or if you guys are putting more.No matter what I try,I'm still getting peel but,when I used HOK UC-35 and put a third or even forth coat,most of it disappeared.I'm sooooo sick of sanding! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/fire.gif
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How many coats of Clear do you use?
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
T
TAZ
Guest
Hey Jim,
We always put more on...but we are using UC-35 which is fairly thin. Some HIgh Solids requires that you put two coats on. I know when I used PPG 894, if you put too much or too thick of coats it would solvent pop on you.
Its really not how much clear you put on, it's how it is applied. If your gun has good atomization, it should layout nice with the 'wet look' like you need to lay a little more material on each coat, or it could be your gun setup. Of course, some of it could be the reducer.
On a 2 coat high solids, usually you need to lay the first coat down 'wet' (no tack coat). The first coat determines how your second coat will layout. If you get good at it, it'll look like you are done spraying after the first coat.
High solids are a little harder to work with...
Be careful! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
We always put more on...but we are using UC-35 which is fairly thin. Some HIgh Solids requires that you put two coats on. I know when I used PPG 894, if you put too much or too thick of coats it would solvent pop on you.
Its really not how much clear you put on, it's how it is applied. If your gun has good atomization, it should layout nice with the 'wet look' like you need to lay a little more material on each coat, or it could be your gun setup. Of course, some of it could be the reducer.
On a 2 coat high solids, usually you need to lay the first coat down 'wet' (no tack coat). The first coat determines how your second coat will layout. If you get good at it, it'll look like you are done spraying after the first coat.
High solids are a little harder to work with...
Be careful! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
T
tiller2nv
Guest
Hey scott you ever use UFC-35?
Jim,didn't you just get that new Plus?That thing should be pulverizing the clear for you unless oyu have the 1.4 tip in it.Like Scott said,forget the tack coat method with these clears.When I used DuPont's first generation of those clears I really didn't like them.They didn't use reducer then so I don't know if they do now or not.You can try slowing it down too to get a lille more flow before it flashes,if there's any humidity I run PPG about 10 degrees slower than the temp and have even gone 15.
N
newbie
Guest
Bornhard,
Tiller asked about UFC-35, that is a different product then UC-35. I'm interested in an answer as well.
Thanks,
newbie
Tiller asked about UFC-35, that is a different product then UC-35. I'm interested in an answer as well.
Thanks,
newbie
Rex,ya,i'm useing the plus.But,ready to go back to my other gun.(Had the clear laying fairly nice)I started with the 1.4,way too big for me.then tried the 1.3,not much better results,now i'm trying the 1.2.Full open fan with almost full open fluid.The first coat is being put on wet,I'm not laying it as a tack coat.It says not to run the gun over 29psi,can I safely go up at all?I'm useing a medium reducer and sometimes it's under 70,should I switch to a faster one?When I spray clear,I move just fast enough to get a solid wet pass,(just a little slower than base)is that ok or should I slow down even more?I've slowed down too much before and it solvent popped on me.I guess I have to find that happy medium.Some stuff comes out nice but most lately has way too much peel.I gotta be overlooking something. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/headbutt.gif
M
mojoz
Guest
I cann't help myself & no I am not trying to offend sata or any other gun users but I went to the IWATA LPH400LV & have yet to shoot anything but glass results with speeds not quite as fas as conventional but twice the speed as any other HVLP I have used this gun makes me actualy like HVLP for the first time in 5+ years sorry little off topic but wanted to pass that on to any looking at new guns oh I use 1.3 tip requires very little cfm to they say 2-3 hp compressor will work but I dont know about that I still use 2 compressors a 4 & a 5hp hooked in parallel for all but airbrushing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Yeah,that Iwata is sweet if you want to spend the $.Actually it's an LVLP but I think it kicks the crap out of HVLPs,other than the slower pass speed than I'm used to.
Jim,forget that pressure recommendation,they're all basically FOS.Crank her up man.I'm running the 1.3 tip at 42-45lbs and my fluid is in enough to keep the trigger from bottoming on the frame by maybe 1/16-1/8" using PPG clear.This should get you real close to a tweak here or there to make up for any differences in DuPont's clear (I remember it as friggin stucco).I had a chance to use that Iwata above and it was set up with an airguage cap,when it was dialled in in was about 10lbs above recommended inlet pressure.I almst forgot,I'm running the 3/8" fittings and lines too and you need that volume to work these guns,if you're using the standard 1/4" you'll be starving the gun for air.More pressure and less fluid will help offset it but it'll slow down your pass speed more.That's one bitch about the majority of today's guns.Your reducer sounds pretty good and I would probably blend the medium with the next faster when it hit's 70 or below,kind of depends on the humidity at the time I pulled the trigger.Personally you're doing great watching what's happening,I'd be running the piss out of it with that reducer and pressure,you're throwing bowlingballs instead of bb's(remember that post?).
Jim,forget that pressure recommendation,they're all basically FOS.Crank her up man.I'm running the 1.3 tip at 42-45lbs and my fluid is in enough to keep the trigger from bottoming on the frame by maybe 1/16-1/8" using PPG clear.This should get you real close to a tweak here or there to make up for any differences in DuPont's clear (I remember it as friggin stucco).I had a chance to use that Iwata above and it was set up with an airguage cap,when it was dialled in in was about 10lbs above recommended inlet pressure.I almst forgot,I'm running the 3/8" fittings and lines too and you need that volume to work these guns,if you're using the standard 1/4" you'll be starving the gun for air.More pressure and less fluid will help offset it but it'll slow down your pass speed more.That's one bitch about the majority of today's guns.Your reducer sounds pretty good and I would probably blend the medium with the next faster when it hit's 70 or below,kind of depends on the humidity at the time I pulled the trigger.Personally you're doing great watching what's happening,I'd be running the piss out of it with that reducer and pressure,you're throwing bowlingballs instead of bb's(remember that post?).
Rex and Scott,I shot the back of the motorhome today.When I shot the clear,I Raised the pressure to 42,1.2 tip,full fluid and almost full fan,fast reducer and Man did it layout nice!Finally!If it wasn't for dust,I wouldn't even sand it.I have to move kinda slow so,I'm gonna try the 1.3 in a few days.Thanks again for the excellant advice,Jim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Well,this is tuff for me since I have no idea how DuPont is now and what their temp range on reducer is.Ok,compare these PPG reducer ranges to yours.Medium (DT870)is 65-80D,warm is (DT885)75-90D.There's more but these are in our range.Under 70 I'll run a 50/50 mix of the 2,at 70+ I'd just go straight warm.PPG is cool because the last 2 digits can be used as a rough temp#.I try to run 10 degrees warmer than the temp in our humidity so if you don't have the humidity you can speed it up some.If by chance we have very low humidity(really,it has happened!)I run closer to the temp range of the reducer-ie. on a 75D day I'd use the medium(65-80) with no warm.It's something you have to learn with temp and humidity.I like my base to sit wet a few minutes to flow and orient the metallic or pearl,and be flashed off in close to or at 10 minutes.I'll usually slow my clear down just a little over that if I'm not in a hurry to get it out.There is something to remember about running a little on the slow side though,you can get solvent overpenetration on primers and get shrinking over bodywork.I will state PPG's surfacer primers are awefull about shrinkage.Even if it takes 6 months they will shrink in some and that's another rant of mine.Their cheaper Omni line primer is great,but for twice the price and to get the warrantee that primer is junk.The part that pisses me off is they know it but won't admit it and always blame it on you.HOK is going in the home shop as soon as I'm done with it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yikes02.gif
Damn,it took me a while to type that but I did have to look up the reducer ranges.Glad it worked out-see,I told you that was a nice gun /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gifI think you'll like the 1.3 better on large areas,it doesn't change the texture alot but will speed you up quite a bit.Just go a touch slower on the reducer to offset the attomization difference.
Rex,When scott did his paint brand survey awhile back,I think Dupont or PPG was most used but,seems HOK is gaining.Thier line is so easy,not alot of products to confuse you.Too bad they don't color match with OEM colors.I think for custom work,thier the way to go.The only reason I've been useing DuPont is my paint guy has everything on the shelf,no ordering!That stuff is expensive but,He's only 20 minutes away and has everything a bodyshop would ever need.He has to order the HOK when I want it.Take Care,Jim
C
cjb
Guest
i use a NR2000 with 1.3 and shoot dupont 7600 hypercure clear. this stuff lays out unbelievably. i own an auto collision repair shop and have a full time painter so i paint very little and i can tell you this stuff lays out and holds out very well (even for me). we pay around 150 or so for the kit. i use house of color base and candy, but ive never used their clears. oh, and its dry in an hour with no bake cycle. buff in a couple hours. everybody says it looks buffed. let me know if anybody else has tried it on small parts. dont get me wrong, on a car it dries very quick and is a "production" clear, but for small parts its works the best for me.
chris
chris