How to paint a motorcycle gas tank

Dt100guy

New member
Hello, I came here looking for an expert's advice.

I have a 1979 Yamaha DT100. Now I am planning on painting the gas tank, muffler protector, and side cover army green, with either a white star or shark teeth on the gas tank.

I haven't painted anything besides fences so I am looking for advice on how to do this the most simple yet durable way as possible.

I've read the primer, paint, and clear coat/finish need to work together.

What kind of paint, primer, and finish should I use? How do I paint it?

Thanks
 
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bondofreak

New member
Hello, I came here looking for an expert's advice.

I have a 1979 Yamaha DT100. Now I am planning on painting the gas tank, muffler protector, and side cover army green, with either a white star or shark teeth on the gas tank.

I haven't painted anything besides fences so I am looking for advice on how to do this the most simple yet durable way as possible.

I've read the primer, paint, and clear coat/finish need to work together.

What kind of paint, primer, and finish should I use? How do I paint it?

Thanks
Buy paint and primer from one paint line. 2K primers and clear only. After you get the base on apply your star/emblem and bury it in clear. Make sure the base has flashed at least 30-60 minutes b4 applying decal.
 

Dt100guy

New member
I already have rustoleum gloss oil based enamel spray paint for the base, and rustoleum gloss oil based enamel paint for the decal. no primer or clear

My plan is to wet sand some not all of the original paint with 500, 1500, 2000. Clean it, spray on about two coats, wait a week or two, cure with heat lamps etc. then sand lightly with 2000, and rub with rubbing compound/wax.

What do you think?
 
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bondofreak

New member
Good luck. In this improper procedure (product choice) for a lasting and good quality job....I would sand everything with 600 wet. After all of the top coats are applied and well cured. Then go for the 2000 cut, compound then polish.
I suggest spending some money on higher quality materials.
 

satatom

New member
Good luck. In this improper procedure (product choice) for a lasting and good quality job....I would sand everything with 600 wet. After all of the top coats are applied and well cured. Then go for the 2000 cut, compound then polish.
I suggest spending some money on higher quality materials.
i agree spend a little more money lol
 

Dt100guy

New member
Where would I buy 2K paint locally preferred in army green color?


I may not even polish it. The paint is gloss and I am going for more of a flat green look. I'm thinking about putting down one layer of primer, drying/curing it, then about 3-4 coats of army green, drying/curing it, then sanding it with 2000, finishing with some Turtle Hard Shell Wax, which I won't even polish that much, just for a layer of protection from gas.
 
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TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
You'll need to do a Google search (or look in the Yellow Pages) for a body shop supplier in your city. Then you'll need to go there and look through their color chip books. Who knows, maybe they've had a request before for an 'army green' and can point you in the right direction.

As far as going with the flat or satin look, you can just purchase a separate quart of flattening agent. You can mix this in with the paint (or clear if you do a basecoat/clearcoat). The more you add, the flatter the gloss will be.
 

bondofreak

New member
They also make matte clear. Bottom line on the satin/matte/flat look is it cant be buffed. The trash, bugs, and peel has to stay. It is what it is after shot.
 
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