I need to redo my Buddy's scoot because of a product failure and he's kicking around what color he wants.Well,he's talking about doing some spiderwebbing on it like years ago just blowing straight lacquer thru the gun.My prob is this is going to take an ungoddly amount of clear to smooth out.Anyone know of anything thinner than the lacquer to use or about how much clear it will take to burry this?I'm kind of figuring 8 to 10 coats will cover everything but the blobs,but these can get twice as thick as what the what the strings are.I can see it cracking already in our sun and heat.This thing's solid bodywork too on Custom Chrome tanks and rear fender so it's not like I'm starting from good steel.Some of the waviest parts I've ever seen,actually on the verge of full blown dents.
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- Thread starter rex
- Start date
Thanx Osh.I have to ask since you're old school like I learned,do you still hose it?I've gotten to the point now that my coats of this new sh!t go on thin to avoid probs,but I'm thinking going HOK with this one to get the old school clear.Just to burry decals on a HD tank I need 6 coats not counting the flow coats.Could maybe forget the flowcoats but I Feel better with them (remember the anal bit).
you could also use std acrlic enamal clear. Also i think ppg still makes a wrinkle paint. You rhember the old M/T valve covers with the black wrinkle paint. i redid a fiew sets many moons ago and coated them with ppg single stage clear enamal and the had no problems. Figured if it held out on a hot motor might work on a tank.
just ideas
just ideas
Nah,that won't work Crazy,he wants yellow spiderwebbing and the only thing I know of to spray out that way in strings is unreduced lacquer.I thought someone once said they got basecoat to work but it hasn't worked for me.Maybe I'll leave the lid off some till it thickens up and try it again.Actually I'm hoping he changes his mind again.
Actually sounds like a crazy project and something I would say the guy down the road is an expert doing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/agree.gif
I was wondering if you could get this effect that you want with a regular paint brush. Dip the brush into the paint and sling it onto the base coat paint. Not real clear on the actual effect you really want. I believe I've seen the webbing deal, but it was so long ago I can't clearly remember what it looks like.
Oh yeah Rex, I thought I was loosing my mind with the Custom Chrome parts I order and all the f-ing work with putty that goes into making them smooth. Thought I was the only one having that problem. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sunglass.gif
I was wondering if you could get this effect that you want with a regular paint brush. Dip the brush into the paint and sling it onto the base coat paint. Not real clear on the actual effect you really want. I believe I've seen the webbing deal, but it was so long ago I can't clearly remember what it looks like.
Oh yeah Rex, I thought I was loosing my mind with the Custom Chrome parts I order and all the f-ing work with putty that goes into making them smooth. Thought I was the only one having that problem. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sunglass.gif
Rex
I'd like to think I don't hose it on anymore. I use a Sata95 with a 1.3 tip. I also think that HVLP is a misnomer because i get a lot better job when I choke the material down and crank up the air.In my opinion alot of material at low air pressure is a leading cause of solvent popping.6 coats of the 2k clear is more than enuff to cover a HD decal.If you don't have a millmeter see if you can borrow one from a jobber to check one of your clear jobs and you'll be surprised at how thick that really is.Have you ever sanded thru 4 coats of clear?
OK i've rambled on long enuff, but just for sh&ts and grins I might try a 2 color cobweb test panel just to see for myself.
Osh
I'd like to think I don't hose it on anymore. I use a Sata95 with a 1.3 tip. I also think that HVLP is a misnomer because i get a lot better job when I choke the material down and crank up the air.In my opinion alot of material at low air pressure is a leading cause of solvent popping.6 coats of the 2k clear is more than enuff to cover a HD decal.If you don't have a millmeter see if you can borrow one from a jobber to check one of your clear jobs and you'll be surprised at how thick that really is.Have you ever sanded thru 4 coats of clear?
OK i've rambled on long enuff, but just for sh&ts and grins I might try a 2 color cobweb test panel just to see for myself.
Osh
K
kustom paint workz
Guest
hey Rex have you ever seen the paint called x-otic crystals. Innate.com sells it. I think it maybe close to the old school effect you are looking for.
Kustom,I thought about it but I'll have to show him a pic to see if he likes it,thanx.
Osh,Boy that 95 sure doesn't make it easy not to hose it.There's a kid at work using one and I had to tell him many times to choke it back,I think that thing could spray clear straight.I don't have a mill guage but thought of getting one,they do come in handy at times.Believe it or not I have knocked thru 4 coats but it was PPG's older 2020 over a decal.It was a custom made one so I don't doubt it was thicker than Harley's thinking about it now.
Joe,the brush trick is different.Drop straight lacquer from the can into your gun and pull the trigger,depending on your fan,distance and airpressure you can get long strings or drops and anything in between.Used to be big 20 years ago.Hate that cheap steel.All the aftermarket steel pretty much needs some work but the good thick stuff isn't as bad.CC does sell some good stuff in their pricier stuff but the thin steel they use in the cheaper stuff just can't be worked enough to smooth out for mass production.It still remains yu get what you pay for.Alot of people freak over a $6-800 gas tank but they don't realize there's less work and the steel quality is better and thicker.Oh well,I'll straighten it for $.
Thanx guys,later.
Osh,Boy that 95 sure doesn't make it easy not to hose it.There's a kid at work using one and I had to tell him many times to choke it back,I think that thing could spray clear straight.I don't have a mill guage but thought of getting one,they do come in handy at times.Believe it or not I have knocked thru 4 coats but it was PPG's older 2020 over a decal.It was a custom made one so I don't doubt it was thicker than Harley's thinking about it now.
Joe,the brush trick is different.Drop straight lacquer from the can into your gun and pull the trigger,depending on your fan,distance and airpressure you can get long strings or drops and anything in between.Used to be big 20 years ago.Hate that cheap steel.All the aftermarket steel pretty much needs some work but the good thick stuff isn't as bad.CC does sell some good stuff in their pricier stuff but the thin steel they use in the cheaper stuff just can't be worked enough to smooth out for mass production.It still remains yu get what you pay for.Alot of people freak over a $6-800 gas tank but they don't realize there's less work and the steel quality is better and thicker.Oh well,I'll straighten it for $.
Thanx guys,later.
S
Squirt
Guest
Im a newbie but I tried this and it worked for me.I walked around outside(I live in the woods) and found a real spiderweb, I then hit it with rattlecan red,got my motorcycle front fender(black and taped off in aresa) and "pushed" the fender through the web ,you only get one try.I then cleared it (2 coats, HOK) You cant get no more reallistic than this.Good luck.Squirt
T
tcannon
Guest
Squirt, I like your idea. I did a job back in the 70's (yea I did shoot a lot of cob web lacquer jobs) when the blackberries were in season. The base was white pearl with (you guessed it) blackberry bird droppings. This thing was cleared to the best of my ability. It was just what the guy I did it for wanted but to me it just looked like birdshit. Happy Holidays, TC. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
LudicrousSpeed
New member
TC,
You aren't too far from me, I live in a small town called West Frankfort. Take 24 north to 56 and then about 20 miles............
Small world! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/good_bye.gif
You aren't too far from me, I live in a small town called West Frankfort. Take 24 north to 56 and then about 20 miles............
Small world! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/good_bye.gif
T
tcannon
Guest
LS, I know where West Frankfort is (haven't been there in a few years though). Ever coming to Paducah look me up. I think I'll try the spider web deal on a helmet this spring. The more I think about it... you never know until you try! TC /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
we used to use a product (Matthews, a subsidiary of PPG that makes paints for the architectural signage and graphics industry makes the stuff) called "Tie-bond". It was essentially a clear plastic adhesion promoter, you'd mix it with reducer 1:1 and spray it, then paint over that. They always said that it would spiderweb big time if it wasn't reduced enough, and I used to see it start spiderwebing by the time it got to the back of the booth, even reduced 1:1. I'd imagine you could add some color to the unreduced Tie-bond (or equivalent, such as Bulldog adhesion promoter) and then stand back and spray that for good results...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohwell.gif