Intercoat clear?

K

kevsLX

Guest
What's the difference between an Intercoat clear like the stuff HOK sells, and the type of clear you would use as your final finish?
Does anybody besides HOK make an intercoat clear?
 

ezrider

New member
Kev, an inter coat clear is just a base coat with no pigments. i know PPG has an equivilant,i am sure the other manufacturers must also (i have only used PPG and HOK for the past 10 years or so )the diffrances are durability,gloss, uv protection and build, intercoat clear has none of these it is not ment for top coating.it is just for protecting base coat layers, if you screw up you can fix it with out ruining whats underneath.
 
K

kevsLX

Guest
Thanks ez.
Does the Intercoat stuff setup quick like say a DBC basecoat?
Main reason I'm asking is I cleared between layers of graphics on that Wide Glide I did with Omni Quick Clear, and it sucked having to wait a day or so to scuff it then apply the next layer of graphics.
Would I have any compatibilty issues using the HOK interocat stuff over PPG DBC base?
I'm just full of questions eh?
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T

TAZ

Guest
PPG's number is D895 which is what I personally use. It runs about $85 for a gallon of it.

It dries quite a bit quicker than a catalyzed clear. Not as quick as a base, but still quick. At least you won't have to wait overnight to do the next layer.

Since DBC is a base urethane without having to use the reactive reducer (like DBU)
it will work fine.
 

rex

New member
What they said.PPG's DBC is DBC500 and the DBU line is DBU500.Scott uses the better Global line.If you have access to the mixing rack,DBC500 is nothing more than 649 mixing clear mixed with an equal part of 689 binder.For DBU the 649 is universal to both,but you substitute the DBU clear binder for the 689.It's original intent was to clear down color on those hard to blend metallics,but it's also great to make candies with and for the intercoat barrier.PPG says to use it for a jambing clear,but I won't.Just remember this stuff is base.It's thin and you don't want to plow it on to lose an edge.Too much base isn't good,that's why DBU has a hardner in the reducer.They make a hardner for DBC for the thicker custom stuff,but I've seen serious adhesion problems from using it.The clear comes off in sheets.Personally I don't like DBU and have had to use 6 or 7 coats of DBC from earlier transparent formulas on a spot job without any problems.Kind of pushing it IMO but.If you think you're getting thick lay a few coats of topcoat clear down and pick back up where you left off,just don't sandwich the base and clear alot.2 basings and clearings with a reclear is getting thick,but you're playing in the custom area with no guarrantees from the manufacturer.As long as you treat it as a thick custom job (like don't let it bake in the sun everyday) you'll be fine.
 
K

kevsLX

Guest
I appreciate all the info guys. Gives me alot to think about
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I will check with my suplier on the DBC500, and give it a try on my next job.
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