I shot a guide coat and after blocking my Butt off,tried the DA on part of the hood,(I held the DA very flat and kept it moving)afterward I shot more guide coat and hand blocked it,it came out very close to perfectly straight.I was wondering how good of job the DA would do?Because you really never know how good you did til the topcoat and clear is on.At the very least,would sanding the guide coat with the DA make it easier prior to the hand block?How do they do it in the shops.thanks,Jim
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Is it possible to block with a DA?
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
Hey buddy,sorry I've been gone.OK,here's my view of it:yes and no/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sunglass.gif\
Actually it depends on skill and tools(this is going to be a friggin long one and I've had a few so....)Mud hogs are our friend,with a big flat pad,DA's are usually a mini version but you have a huge selection of pads.Some are rock hard flat and others are soft to conform to curves somewhat,then with velcro paper you have a foam interface pad to conform completely to the surface.Many years ago I had a production (Maaco,Electrobake) bodyman teach me some butcher work and one of the deals was you didn't touch a block or an airfile without getting fired-you had your hand,sandpaper,a DA and a mudhogg(National Detroit still rules).It ain't sraight but you'd be surprised how close you can get if it doesn't turn out.Of course black was wavy but if you got all the lines right all you saw was a ripple on the flats-and no you couldn't surf on them hehe.This was also back in the 80's so these newer contours on panels throws a kink on that now.To answer your question now,yes you can do it on easy panels with a stiff pad/paper combo.If you want it undeniably straight I longboard it for the blockings and use a handpad to final sand it,but you have to remember I'm now doing insurance production work (read a stiffy up with no lube) so this just don't happen now working on American and Jap stuff-it's DA down the girl and squirt it.On Euro cars or any of my good side stuff it's alot of the hand work for the extra straightness.If I do use a DA on primer it's strictly for a quick level on the first prime on a very large area that I know is right so I can reprime it and finish block it in a quicker timeframe.My train of thought just went out the door with the dog so come back and we'll finish the chapter.
Actually it depends on skill and tools(this is going to be a friggin long one and I've had a few so....)Mud hogs are our friend,with a big flat pad,DA's are usually a mini version but you have a huge selection of pads.Some are rock hard flat and others are soft to conform to curves somewhat,then with velcro paper you have a foam interface pad to conform completely to the surface.Many years ago I had a production (Maaco,Electrobake) bodyman teach me some butcher work and one of the deals was you didn't touch a block or an airfile without getting fired-you had your hand,sandpaper,a DA and a mudhogg(National Detroit still rules).It ain't sraight but you'd be surprised how close you can get if it doesn't turn out.Of course black was wavy but if you got all the lines right all you saw was a ripple on the flats-and no you couldn't surf on them hehe.This was also back in the 80's so these newer contours on panels throws a kink on that now.To answer your question now,yes you can do it on easy panels with a stiff pad/paper combo.If you want it undeniably straight I longboard it for the blockings and use a handpad to final sand it,but you have to remember I'm now doing insurance production work (read a stiffy up with no lube) so this just don't happen now working on American and Jap stuff-it's DA down the girl and squirt it.On Euro cars or any of my good side stuff it's alot of the hand work for the extra straightness.If I do use a DA on primer it's strictly for a quick level on the first prime on a very large area that I know is right so I can reprime it and finish block it in a quicker timeframe.My train of thought just went out the door with the dog so come back and we'll finish the chapter.
Hey Rex,Glad to see your still alive!I figured you been busy,the board has been kinda slow lately with summer and all.I couldn't wait for an answer so,here's what I did,After welding,sandblasting and bodywork,3 coats of high build,guide coated it,sanded(holding the pad real flat and always moving) with 150 on the DA,one more coat of high build and another guide coat,now I'm hand blocking with 400 wet.So far,it looks good,I found a couple of small spots I need to glaze but,so far so good.It's a 74 Monte Carlo and it's gonna be black.I want it to turn out near perfect.any other tips would defintly be appreciated.I've been useing a 10in rubber block,12in hard plastic block I made and a small sqeegie for the edges,is that ok?thanks a bunch,jim
P.S.
I hate those friggin high spots!
P.S.
I hate those friggin high spots!
Yeah,sounds like you're doing just fine.The only thing I do different on a job like this is I would block it 3 times-probably a 220 block in between the 150 and final block.You can kind of check it by runnung water over the panel and waiting for it finish sheeting off.It's going to look a little ripply but you will be able to see any bad waves.Oh,high spots bite for sure.Later man.