Hey Rex that other thread was getting too long from Big Stinky and me.The only problem is I already put the dash back in along with the wiring and carpet..I think I'll leave those little spots for now.I don't really want to clear it because it has the perfect sheen right now.I'll go ahead and tape the edge so I don't over spray.I stripped and sprayed the steering colum,glovebox door and some brackets for the pull handles for the vents today,remember those?With your help,everything is coming right along.thanks,Jim
Laquer Paint
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
Doing the clear thing does kind of suck since it'll make that part look different than the rest.If it's a light blemish you can hand rub it with the fine compound and do the whole part to blend it out.If it's a really fine flaw I'd leave it until it gets to the point the future flaws require a redo.It's a pain taping off the winshield and dash pad and stuff but when it gets to the point you cant stand it an hour's worth of bull and a detail gun to cram in the tighter area will bring it right back.I wanna see pix of this when you're done
(or whenever)
Well,I'm slowly learning about the traits of laquer,It's really a cool paint,leave it as is and it's kinda satin,polish it up and can be glossy,you only have to use cheap laquer thinner(1to1)8 bucks a gallon, and clean up is easy.But,when I did the glove box door,I had a little peel,I wetsanded it with 1000 then hand rubbed it with 3M's fine cut,It's getting glossy on me!Normally,that would be ok but,since it's for the interior,not good plus,it doesn't match the dash sheen.Think I should scuff it and reshoot the door?Or just hand rub the dash?I'm getting alot less peel when I spray these days but,I really got to get past this,It's starting to really p*** me off.I've been useing the touch up gun,Think I would get better results with the big gun?I haven't been spraying many parts at a time so,thought I would cut down on waste with the smaller gun.
Yeah,if you sprayed the dash with the big gun it should duplicate over to the glovebox door.Also did you reduce it the same between the dash and the door?100% sounds a little thick.Another option is to go with a step slower thinner but if the temp is the same when you sprayed the dash it may have a little more gloss.I think using the big gun will fix it though.
T
TAZ
Guest
Jim,
Probably the main cause of your orange peel is that the gun is applying too much material at one time or your paint is too thick. If I remember right you thin out lacquer about 150% (been a long time since I have sprayed lacquer...only sprayed 1-2 jobs) . This is a very thin ratio...so it would be quite hard to get orange peel...
so you could be spraying the paint on dry, but it appears that the paint is orange peel,
If after you wetsand, you see little pits...this would be caused by applying the paint too dry.
To keep orange peel to a minimum, one of the best advice I can give would be to use a "good" quality gun. Not necessarily "bigger". I personally use the Iwata W-100 gravity for alot of my "small" job spraying. This gun atomizes the paint excellent.
Also, I would "rent" a professional buffer. This will give quite you *much* better results versus hand buffing...let alone less manual labor.
Good luck to you!
Probably the main cause of your orange peel is that the gun is applying too much material at one time or your paint is too thick. If I remember right you thin out lacquer about 150% (been a long time since I have sprayed lacquer...only sprayed 1-2 jobs) . This is a very thin ratio...so it would be quite hard to get orange peel...
so you could be spraying the paint on dry, but it appears that the paint is orange peel,
If after you wetsand, you see little pits...this would be caused by applying the paint too dry.
To keep orange peel to a minimum, one of the best advice I can give would be to use a "good" quality gun. Not necessarily "bigger". I personally use the Iwata W-100 gravity for alot of my "small" job spraying. This gun atomizes the paint excellent.
Also, I would "rent" a professional buffer. This will give quite you *much* better results versus hand buffing...let alone less manual labor.
The paint is Dupont,My paint man said,1to1 so that's what I did.Hate to say it but,I never even read the can yet!Ya I know.DUH.I'll try a little more thinner and see if it helps.Also,I'll go with the bigger gun,I'm really liking this paint stuff so,I may invest in a better gun before I do the Chevelle.Last year I bought a nice $200 makita buffer,Does that make any sense?,200 dollar buffer and a 100 dollar gun.(you can quit laughing any time now guys)I didn't want the gloss,so I tried to buff by hand after I 1000'ed it.Only to get rid of the peel,it sprayed with the same sheen but,I tried to smooth it out.I'm painting at 50lbs,I bet either I'm too close, moving too slow or the paints too thick.Although,The other parts came out ok with minimal peel.So I'm betting it's my technique.I'm gonna go play in the garage now.
I wont laugh.Actually the buffer is a good one so it'll last you a long time.Starting with a cheap gun isnt a bad thing at all.It gets you used to things and then you have a gun for primer or base when you get a better one.Ideally you should have at least 3 guns for primers,base and clear.That's unrealistic for alot of people,but 2 would be great in that situation.
OK,Things are working out!I went ahead and hand rubbed the dash & steering colum,everything is matching.It actually looks better than it did before!It looks closer to the original.I thought it would get too much gloss but,It looks good,I'm extremely happy with it,I sprayed some more small pieces,The sides of the dash that stay in the car,the steering wheel bracket and some other pieces nobody will ever see. I finally read the can,he was right 1to1 is what it says,I tried to over reduce by another 50%,not a good idea,it's gets too transparent.