Lay out help

'03 zx6r

New member
Hey guys how's it going? I have question or two. I'm planning a lay out for a paint job.

It's going to be candy blue with tribal white design with ice pearl with lime green pinstripe and then pearl or solid white stars. So there's how I'm planning on staging it. Everything Is hok.
1. Prep( sand with 220 then body filler and then polyester primer)
2. Sand primer with 400 and degrease
3. Spray basecoat
4. Spray Kandy with sg100
5. Spray sg100 to lock it in
6. Tape out tribal design
7. Spray white then sg150 with ice pearl
8. Lock in with sg100
9. Pinstripe lime green
10. Spray white star stencils
11. Spray monster energy logo
12. Then clear with uc35

Let me know if you would do anything different or add a step or something. Thanks a lot, just don't want to do it twice. Cool hope I hear from you guys
 
T

TAZ

Guest
That would be the basic steps just to get the job done. But you do have A lot of material sandwiched under the UC35 that doesn't have any hardeners.
Here is what I would do. Keep in mind, this is the way I do it. There are quite a few different ways to do a job. Sometimes you would even want to do the tribal color first, then the base last. In this case, I would do the tribal color last.

1--Do any bodywork (grind areas), apply the filler, then prime the areas
2--If you want to prime the complete parts, sand the part with 320 and block the areas where you had the bodywork. Reprime if necessary.
THIS IS WHERE YOU WOULD START PAINTING
3-- Wipe down parts with cleaner. Spray a HOK sealer (should be about the same shade as your metallic base)
4-- Spray your candy blue. Then clearcoat with UC-35
5--Resand with 800 DA and wetsand with 1000*
6--Layout tribals
7--Spray with with your pearl
8--Reclear with a couple more coats of UC-35
9--Resand with 800 DA and wetsand with 1000. This will flatten your tribals so your surface is flat for the pinstripes
10--Pinstripe
11--Reclear with UC35
12--Resand with 800 and wetsand with 1000 grit. By now, everything should be nice and flat.
13--Final clear

14--Wetsand and buff

You should let the paint steps dry properly between other painted steps.

:luck:

*Doing this step with seal in the metallic basecoat, the candy, and the sealer with a hardened clear. This will also give you a perfectly flat surface once sanded to lay out your graphics
 

hoss

New member
what he said!

you definitly want to have a clear coat under your pinstripe. if you are doing it free hand, you can wipe it off if you have a mess up.

good luck!!!
 

'03 zx6r

New member
Wow, I appreciate your guy's time writing that out for me. Is the sealer necessary? I'm glad you showed me another option. Shouldni use sg150 for the pearl or can I get away with sg100? Return that and get more uc35?
 

'03 zx6r

New member
another question, when i spray the white then pearl, will that be too much of an edge? because the white cant mix the pearl it eats it.
 
T

TAZ

Guest
The sealer isn't totally necessary, but definitely a good idea. Use the 'shade' that is closest to your metallic color you plan on putting under the candy blue.
Not only does it give you a little better hold-out, but it also gives you a great groundcoat for the metallic to go over which will make it cover easier and quicker.

As far as the second question about the white pearl, yes, adding the pearl over the white will make it quite a bit thicker, so you really have to watch this. This is where the clearcoat after the white pearl comes into play. You clearcoat it and you'll see a real thick edge. Then you carefully need to sand and flatten the edge out before the pinstripes.
 

'03 zx6r

New member
So I ran into a problem. I sprayed basecoat then candy and clear coated. Wetsanded with 800. Laid out design and then started to spray white. White down and let it sit for 2 hours and came back with sg100 and ice pearl. First coat wrinkled the white.

I think the reducer is to blame I waited 15 minutes between coats and did
Medium coats. It is a
Medium reducer but it is 60 degrees here.


Any ideas where I went wrong?
I don't have any bc04 left but have enough of everything.
I peeled off all tape. Should I sand all the way down to blue? Or sand till it's trans white??
Do I start over? From where?


Sorry for being such a stooge. But I'm stressing. I would appreciate all your help.
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Are you sure that the 'white' wrinkled and not the candy/clear?

HOK is very forgiving. So I don't know what caused the wrinkling
A few things come to mind though.

--How long did you wait until you sanded the candy and clear before putting on the white stripes? That afternoon, next day, 2 days....?

--Did you use UC35 clear with hardener to clearcoat the candy?

--You might have waited too long to add the SG100 though. Not for sure if this would cause wrinkle though. I've never waited 2 hours to add SG-100 I know I could spray 2-3 coats of white, then add the SG-100, all within 15 minutes.
Gotta watch that edge though!!!!

--Or, you put the coats on wetter than the medium-wet. Your medium-wet may be wetter than my medium-wet, so it ate into the candy base/clear.

My guess would be that the candy/clear was not completely hard and you came back with 'wet' coats of the white/SG100 and it ate into the candy.

=============

If the wrinkling is minor, you might be able to sand it fairly smooth with 1000 grit and respray some white over this area. You will need to spray it 'dry' though. You might want to even use 'fast' reducer if you have it.

You can tell if it's the white wrinkling or the candy base wrinkling by going ahead and wetsanding the area with 1000 grit. If the wrinkles stay white, it's the white paint. If they start turning the candy color, then it's the candy wrinkling.
 

'03 zx6r

New member
Thanks taz, your always there to help. I really appreciate it.

It might have been the clear, I'm not 100% sure. I have not looked in a couple of days since I got wisdom teeth pulled.

I believe it was more than 2 days after the clear, that I sprayed the white. Could that have caused it? Yes, I used hardener and reducer in the clear.

Good thing is this is my buddy's bike and he is letting me take my time. So I spoke to my paint shop which is tricity paint. He said to use fast reducer and try to get as many layers of paint then clear. But I was afraid of that.

That is why I asked here. Good thing about this situation is that my buddy didn't totally like the design so he wants to change it just a tad.

What should I do from here? Sand down to base, mist bc04,candy blue, sg100, white then clear?

Thought I could have tackled this job no problem, but I guess not, first time using hok and doing multiple layers.

Sorry for asking so many questions. I really appreciate your help.
 
T

TAZ

Guest
If you don't have much white and SG100 and the stripe is not that wide, AND it was not the candy/clear that lifted, you should be able to just wipe it down. I've done this a couple days after with no problem. I used lacquer thinner. DO a small spot first just to make sure the lacquer thinner does not lift the candy.
Also, DON"T drench the area if you end up wiping it off.

Or, if you just want to play it safe, just sand off the white. But then you have to be careful not to sand through the clear over the candy.

And yes, use 'fast' reducer when you redo the white.

I don't have any idea what could have caused the wrinkling, or unless it was one of the things I mentioned...that you didn't use UC35. You tried some other clear.

You didn't have white sealer on your bench and you accidentally grabbed that instead of base white? If you did this, YES, the interclear would wrinkle the sealer if you wait too long
 

'03 zx6r

New member
Yes, I'm sure it was one of the things you said, one heavy coat that ate through.
Yes, I did use uc35. Did three layers.

Thanks so much for the help. Going to buy some fast reducer. Even though it was about five light coats of white and two of sg, the build was not as high as I thought.

Should I stick to original game plan that you had for me? Paint rep was worried of how many mils i'd have built up.
 
Last edited:
Top