Mac's Chevy truck questions

[Mac_Muz]

Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Here we go again... What is simple to many is a new begining to me....

Here:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/mac_muz15/lst?.dir=/Chevy+Truck+Repair&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/

There are 3 pics, so you can see whats what.

My question is which place of 3 possible places is best to weld this pannel to the truck?

1. On the out side?

2. On the inside?

3. Cut more and weld it flush as best I can?

There is a rear section cut out, and so missing, that I will have to make from sheet steel.

While I wait I will do a bit more preping to get things ready...

Incase you know of me from my past mishaps here.... Untill the new compressor arrives, and I hope soon the Volvo is on hold more or less, so I have my beloved bike only...

For the gurus of worldly matters see what you can do to hold winter off, ok? Mac

 

[Mac_Muz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Oops! no edit either... Since I will never be able to to the back side of this pannel, what should I coat it with to slow down rust?

I did buy a can of weld thru paint from the 3-M Co., but that stuff is frightfully expensive at 22 bucks a can, for a mere 10 oz!! I will use that where the welding will be, tape it off and shoot X? in the middle portions of the pannel.

BTW there is another pannel for thye other side, 2 rockers and 2 cab corners, and misc others that will be hand made.

I did not want to swamp all you guys with too many questions.... Mac

 

[ezrider]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Mac, if your able to place the patch from behind then weld from the front side making the patch slightly bigger than the area cut out then go that route,if not over lap the panels slightly it makes less body work later on( less bondo )As for cab conners i butt weld them not really for the beguinner it can turn out to be a night mare, so may be you should over lap them. In your second post you said you were gonna make patches for your cab conners and rockers, you can buy aftermarket repair panels very cheep for chevy full size trucks ( less than $20 per repair panel, thats less than $80 for 2 rockers and 2 cab conners) it is much easier and the end result is much better and it should last longer.that piece you have cut out behind your left rear wheel opening os also avalible. in the early 90's i did a ton of these trucks and repair panels are definatly the way to go, but the choice is yours, especially if your on a budget.As far as rust proofing there are Wax sprays thet work alright and ruberized undercoat in spray bomb form. if getting behind is the problem drill a hole in a not noticable place, back sides of inner rockers and cab conners from under the truck, spray your corrosion protection and use rubber rust out plugs to plug the holes maybe with a little seam sealer on top to be sure, also very inexpensive. i hope this helps with out confusing you, if you have any more questions you know where you can find us. Hows the paint on the scooter holding up? it wont be long now before the bikes go into hibernation mode up here in good old New England.

 

[rex]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Hey Mac.On the weld through primer,just spray it where the metal will overlap for protection in there.I'll warn you now the mig will spatter some so don't think something's wrong and it won't compromize your weld at all.When you're done welding in the panel,clean the remainder off when you sandblast or wire wheel the welds.The coat it with the DP.

 

[Mac_Muz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Thanks guys! I guess I may be confusing you too... I have 2 arches right and left, 2 cab corners right and left, and 2 rocker pannels right and left.

The pannel behind the arch I don't have. It was over 40 bucks for it at JC Witney the other side there is amazingly good... I can hammer that one out, and build the rest of that corner ok I think....

One pic I had shown shows the arch pannel under the body cut, and another pic shows it on top of the cut out.

The pic with the pannel on the ground shows green to blue masking tape which is what the new pannel coverage is.....

I have found I can hold steel with one hand as a clamp, and tack another piece on, as a but weld.

It seems a few tackings will hold very well.

My welds are a bit globby for the time, as I don't have the wire speed set just right yet, but not bad.

I have only fooled with the welder so far, seeing what it can do on thin steel, rusted steel, and painted steel.

It likes clean steel best. I tend to pull back for a longer arc, like I was welding thick plate, and that does not work at all. Ok so have a laff on me!

I got some cans of rustoleum # 7769 which is said to be a water proof primer, and I also got the so called "Stop Rust" top coat for that primer.....

I think what I will try is first paint the edges to be welded with the $22.00 paint from 3-M, then tape that with 2" masking tape also 3-M, after allowing that special primer to dry.

Then shoot the rustolum on the back side on the pannel and pray some stays put.

Is it common to leave just bare steel where no one can see? And where it is impossible to get to later?

This is just for where you can't ever get to again after the pannel is welded.... It seems there was nothing there ever before??? Or did it just wear off due to damp and time?

It looks like maybe there was a galvinized?? something once in a few places inside that area..... maybe??? I don't know for sure...
I used that Ospho stuff on what is left there....

I don't want to trust shooting gook blindly inside a closed area.

Once the truck and the car are in new paint, I am going to add old tranny oil, and concoctions of roofing cement and old motor oil with 1,500 miles to 3,000 miles which I change the bike and all the 4 wheels things I have at....

I am talking about drowning these vehicals in old stinky oil, but so be it... I want to kill the rust as much as I can, and don't mind the stink that much.

Rex what is "DP"?

As for the bike it looks as good as it did when I was done!!!!!

You guys were right on with that one after I understood what you were saying....

I do not always understand what is simple to guys that have been doing something for 20+ years see?

But once I get the right idea I am set!!!

Right now I am looking for the best way to place a pannel that can be inside, outside or butt welded.

This is because I am not that hot at sanding evenly.... So the closer the pannel is to being at the correct level, the less blend I have to fill with gook, and sand....

I am thinking of getting plastic culvert pipe, and building inner fenders of it. I have room to do so, and might mount these on electric fence insulators, so there is about 1" air space all around betwwen the steel and the plastic....

It seems that might cut down on the sand/salt some what....

Ahhh that bike...

To see the bike in person you would not think it was me that did all that.... it kinda came out too perfect for me to have done that as a first time deall.....

No one believes me when I tell them I did it in the shower! Most think it is a decal, and I play along with that....

I send them down ta' Wal-Mart for the decal, and lie about just where it is in the store.
I tell em Auto Dept., Later I tell em Crafts!

Ya know those decals go on so easy with a heat gun! it just shrinks right on with no trouble at all!

I will ride untill first snow/salting... it is not the cold that gets to me but the salt..... So about Turkey day I will be putting the bike indoors for over winter, in temp 60+

Sorry about bein so long winded.... but then you know that about me...

Thanks so much, and I will be helping a guy tommorow for a bit... So if there are changes, maybe you will see em, and make them??

Thanks Mac

ps: I am gonna owe you guys a few cold ones one of these days....

If I hear you ever come North and miss here I am gonna be ticked!!!!

We have mountains and bug and everything in summer... We have them same Mountains and no bugs in winter! W

inter is best!!!

 

[shaunboy]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

HI MAC
I THINK WHAT REX SAID DP IS.....
"PPG EPOXY " PRIMER/ETCH/SURFACER.
IT HAS DIFFERENT NUMBERS FOR TYPES LIKE DP40....ITS THE ONLY ONE IVE USED BUT FOUND IT VERY GOOD!!!
ID ALSO USE THE SPRAYCAN WELDTTHROUGH PRIMER ON THE PANEL REPAIRS
DID YOU MAKE THOSE PANELS IN THE PICS YOURSELF???
AWSOME JOB.

 

[Mac_Muz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

I can't buy PPG anything around here..

I can get Sherrwin Williams, but it is pricey.

I can get Dupont nason products reasonable.

I have been unable to find even a body shop that uses PPG.

No I did not make the pannel in the pic... it is from JC Whitney......

8 years ago I did make the lower half of the drivers door and other parts of the cab corners and rockers from a Dodge Van slidding door I got at the dump.

At that time I was dead flat busted broke, and had no choice if I wanted to drive the truck.

Part of my problem is I don't recall how I did it.

At that time I painted the green you see with a brush, and the paint is Porch Deck Enamel, which I like pretty well for a woods /work truck.

This time the truck is going to be somewhat like military camo all over....

New Hampster has lots of cops, and all those cops hate rust... New Hampshire loads on the salts in winter (2 types) and also in places use one of those in summer to keep dust down...

New Hampshire is trying to get guys like me to take off the plow rig from the front..... I don't have too, and don't intend too, unless New Hampshire intends to plow my dooryard like I would for me for free!

That ain't gonna happen.......

I play at a rivet forge, and make what is called "Trade Silver" for things in 1758 to 1840, so I can figure out how to shape and bend metals.

When I ask things here it is usually about what way is the best way, and not so much what is done....

Since I make no money doing these things, I can take the best way, that will last the longest, and I don't find this labor much fun.

I am after reasonable, and long lasting repairs for the truck...... Looks is not important, a long life is.

There are no more trucks that I would want, as they now have coil front springs, and independant front suspension.

I have a solid axel, and working Auto Hubs...

A few, well more than a few years ago removed the grease in those hubs. It was like oak tan leather..... I replaced it with molibdenem CVJ grease for VW, Saab, and other foreign car axles....

I may have the last set of 1984 working auto hubs in existance.... Around here any way.....

shaunboy, If you want to see the bike EZ, REX, and Scott helped me with go there...

They saved me from myself.... I cam close to painting that bike flat black, and sticking a band aid on it for show!

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/mac_muz15/lst?.dir=/Tank+Paint&.view=t

Mac

 

[rex]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Shaunboy,you better say that lady has been keeping you buisy since you've been so scarce here

Mac,the DP is the DP40 epoxy Shaunboy said and I thought you said you got some of for this.On the welder adjusting,clean steel is a must or it spatters real bad.If you have a small hole after sandblasting you can fill it but it'll usually burn back untill you hit the full thickness of the steel.Until you get used to the settings just take a clean piece of the same stuff and run some beads playing with the heat and wire speed.Once it's dialed in you're set and if you get more spatter than the weld thru primer it's because of impurities like rust or seam sealer,etc or the wind is blowing the gas away from the tip.You shouldn't have the nozzle more than 1/2" from the work at any time.As far as butt and overlap welding,overlapping is best unless you get into a door,1/4 panel,fender edge etc.For example if you're replacing a cab corner down around the rocker I overlap the ouutside but in the jamb and at the gap line I cut it so that part is a butt weld.That way the gap line isn't made from bondo but the long weld on the outside doesn't warp bad and it doesn't take forever to weld it.Butt welds are great but getting a perfectly flush welded panel without alignment probs or warpage takes 5X longer than an overlap weld.Another trick is to crimp the panel,or put a step in it,so you have an overlap but when you lay the new panel on the crimped flange it's flush with the original.Eastwood sells a set of Visegrips modified to do this but they're like $40 and they're only good for flat panels,they really destroy the shape on curves.Just sit back and look at the area to be patched.If you need a gap line to be straight cut the panel to but up in the shape you need.If you can't overlap the rest of the panel on the inside,tap the original panel a touch low at the overlap and lay the new one over it.That way you'll minmiize distortion and you wont blow through the edge of a butt weld if you rush it.

Don't pass off that job on the scooter either.Damn it you did what some of these cocky 'I'm the best' painters can't do.Be proud of it and admit you did it with paint.If they don't believe you screw them,tell them to bring it up with us and we'll knock them back to their place.Take care man.

 

[Mac_Muz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Rex,

I get a kick out of having folks go to Walmart hunting, and comin back! I tellem they were in the wrong Dept there

But yes I still like what happend to that bike!

It was not just me, but you, EZ, Scott, my wife and me....

I learn kinda slow, but once I understand I keep what I learn.

Today I welded in the truck fender arch, and did make that rear section.

That rear section was made in 2 parts bigger, and 3 smaller parts.

The corner was missing, so I followed a imaginary line with a hidden piece that I made, and then made 2 parts welded as the wheel well corner.

Once that was done, I made the biggest patch, which is just slighty rounded.

The last one gave me fits, as it has a compound curve. That came out ok, but is not exactly what Chevy made.

It is too dark to take pics, so I will do that when I can. Sunday prolly.

It is raining and my landlady's bro is allowing me to keep the truch in his garage for the night so I don't have to paint before plastic body gook....

I am going to use something called "Everlast" which is what the local guy has. He says it is water proof, and I can use "Chromalite" over if I want to smooth things up more...

This is a work truck, and I mangage to bash it in winter plowing.... I think camo paint will hide one heck of a lot....

I still can't find that 3 colors in one paint yet though

Just kidding.... Mac

 

[kustom paint workz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

mac you still looking to do the truck in spray bomb. if so i can get you some part nos from the local auto store for camo colors.

 

[Mac_Muz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

naw, I know where to get camo paints.....

It was suggested here to use Rustoleum..

I can get olive drab as a car paint, and then do the rest in Rustoluem over that..

I sometimes like to play and joke on line..

The all in one can colors is just that.... I bet some day it won't be a joke, and some paint chemist will make 3 or 4 colors that will make a one shot spray for camo, and other colors..

Sorta like oil on water.....

I hope the compressor comes in today

I bought a few air gobblin tools, and I need to get this all done before it is too late!

I should be doing my car, but it has come to a stand still due to not enough air!

So I tore into the truck which needed doing as well...

If I don't have to drive 1/2 the day to get the comp, I will get pics of my welded truck pannel up.... But Sunday will prolly be the first chance.

Mac

 

[rex]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Hey Mac.I never heard of the Everlast but I'm guessing it's a fiberglass type filler like Duraglass with chopped up hairs in it.It's kind of like thick bondo but made differently.You're bondo will stick fine to it but it's best to have a coat of the Chromalite covering it.That Everlast (if it is what I'm thinking) doesn't like to be primed over.Primer will stick fine to it but the stuff had a tendancy to get porous when sanded and has alot of tiny pinholes.Coating it with a coat of bondo cures all that and the bondo is easier to sand anyway.Also the stuff really isn't waterfroof.The can says it is and alot of people believe it,but it is more resistant than bondo.

 

[Mac_Muz]

Re: Mac\'s Chevy truck questions

Yup "Ever Coat/ Ever Glass" short strand gook, which I figured to put a coat of "Chromalite" over before paint.

I ran over all the new metal and welds with a 36 grit grinding wheel. Then wiped down with laquer thinner and a white rag, which ain't white any more...

Then attempted to spread that gook on as even as I could.

I hope you can build layers with this stuff, because I have too!

When I welded the pannel in place evidently according to a string across the pannel area I depressed everything a bit.

I need to build up about 1/4" across the patch.

Right now I have about 3/16" maybe...

By water proof I am hoping dew and the like won't ruin this untill I can get to the paint part...

I had been hoping to be with in 1/8" as welded, but oh well.... Mac