got the marbilizer today everthing was going great, happy with the look. when i was spraying the intercoat clear think i rushed it or applyed it to heavy, it started to wrinkle or something nasty, it stopped right on the eage of being foobared..:sillyme: this is what im thinking let it set 2hrs hit it with marbilized again..and let it set over night to put intercoat on ,, any of you run into this ? im i on the right track to get out of this mess? all input welcome.. thanks... tinman
marbilizer trouble!! need help
- Thread starter TINMAN
- Start date
taz... under the marbilizer was black base cleared and sat over night. next day i suffed it and applyed the marbilizer and hit it with intercoat clear. anyway its bad,, lost all of the marbilized look it looks like sponge paint.now im back at step 1 wet sanded an taped up ready to go at it again.. here is my plan let me know what you think.shoot the base, clear it .next day suff it.shoot silver with some slow reducer an do the marbilize look. not going to use the hok marbilizer this time customer did not like the color of it. then red candy and clear. hope it works this time im killed on this one.. let me know what ya think ...thanks tinman
My guess would be that when you came back and did the marble the next day over the fresh clear, it ate into the clear. it was not the marbleizer itself that did this.
Try a black base, coat of interclear. Let it sit overnight. Then do the marble.
If you intend on doing it this way, do a test first. You can even do it all in one day just to see if you have problems. If you don't this would confirm.
Also, if I remember right, you don't reduce the marbleizer. Did you happen to use slow in this? This would really eat into the previous clearcoat.
If you do the silver base, how are you doing the marble over this?
Try a black base, coat of interclear. Let it sit overnight. Then do the marble.
If you intend on doing it this way, do a test first. You can even do it all in one day just to see if you have problems. If you don't this would confirm.
Also, if I remember right, you don't reduce the marbleizer. Did you happen to use slow in this? This would really eat into the previous clearcoat.
If you do the silver base, how are you doing the marble over this?
Taz, no i did not reduce the marbilizer,when i started this job i showed the guy a part marbilized with black base and marbilized with silver and topped with candy red, he loved it. when i started the job i had trouble with the siliver liftting the black base. so that is when i used the clear to try to lock down the black that is why i want to try the slow reducer with the silver to give me more time to work with it cus when i tryed it the first time it dryed to fast an when i applayed the siliver heavyer it liffted the black,but it was not cleared so that is why i cleared the black to try to lock it down ,then i used HOK MARIBILIZER silver /white right out of the bottle . cuz i did not want to take a chance of the black liftting again. that is when this trouble started, dont think its the paint its something im doing wrong..so now im back at the start an want to go with the black and silver to get the color right ...
why did u clear the base and then marble. this is how i have did marble
#1 - apply black base coat
#2 - apply marble
#3 - apply intercoat clear
#4 - apply candy paint
#5 - apply clear
never had a problem with lifting. alot of HOK porducts are weird so if you mess up in a spot its best to follow all the way through and then go back and refinish the parts that messed up
#1 - apply black base coat
#2 - apply marble
#3 - apply intercoat clear
#4 - apply candy paint
#5 - apply clear
never had a problem with lifting. alot of HOK porducts are weird so if you mess up in a spot its best to follow all the way through and then go back and refinish the parts that messed up
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This happened to me recently. Used it to spray some flake for a quick project, last minute project, i needed it to dry fast.
i was pointed out that hok paints have a higher Kauri-butanol value than most other paints. A higher Kb value means the solvent is more aggressive or active in the ability to dissolve certain materials. Mild solvents have low scores in the tens and twenties; powerful solvents like chlorinated solvents and "High Sol 10" or "High Sol 15" (naphthenic aromatic solvents) have ratings in that are in the low hundreds.
*SG100 is designed to protect base coats for artwork tape outs and blends only. DO NOT USE SG100 AS A BUILD-UP CLEAR. Do not apply more than 4 medium coats of SG100 as wrinkling and splitting may occur.