Metal Flames

Stretch

New member
Hey Guys-

Anyone know how to do this:

http://www.scottbrayshaw.com/gastank_01.JPG

I bought a brushed steel trashcan that I was hoping to try the same effect on. I figured the brushed surface would have enough of a bite to hold the paint, but it didn't. I degreased the whole can, taped off the flames, shot a coat of black basecoast and let it setup about 15 mintues. When I pulled the tape up it pulled quite a bit of paint with it.
mad.gif
I'm thinking it's just an adhesion problem, but was hoping to get your feedback.
confused.gif


Thanks-Stretch
 
D

DDG

Guest
I just read an article about doing the bare metal look. Delamination is an issue with doing it. It said to try a transparent etching sealer over the metal before you clear coat.
I think that only applies to the clear over the bare metal.
Your problem is prepping. Try an adhesion promoter or sand the surface for tooth.
You can also use a small grinder to add a pattern in the steel. Flames perhaps??
I'm doing a sign for a friend on aluminum with the flames ground into the background with an apple red candy and a mural over that. It should look killer in the sun.
Aluminum or stainless steel are the best for this due to any contamination will oxidize were it is present. And not all right away either. Sometimes days, weeks or months later.
Hope this helps,
Dirt
 
T

TWISTED

Guest
get the pattern you want on the metal with sandpaper or a fine disc on a grinder. Do a negative mask for the flames.(Your tape will cover the flames instead of the background) Do your regular steps. Take off the tape and clear it. Durability is a big problem. Check for a clear primer. I have not seen one but they might make it.
 

Stretch

New member
Hey All-

I tried this out this weekend but made some mistakes. I roughed up the entire surface with my sander to get a good tooth over the whole surface. I picked up a can of aerosol adhesion promoter and cover the entire surface with a coat of that after cleaning the metal. I then laid out my flames with blue fineline tape and then covered with automask. I sprayed the color, let it setup a bit and then pulled the tape. The automask pulled up just fine, but the adhesive from the blue fineline tape stuck to the adhesion promoter. Everything looks good other than that.

Any recommendations on how to remove the adhesive without messing up the base coat and adhesion promoter prior to clearing?

Thanks-Stretch
 
C

Chopper

Guest
First-- I'm a 100% newbie, so take anything I say with a grain of salt....

I've had the same problems with the finline tape creeping on my basecoat, leaving a trail of goo. I tried using ppg acryli-clean grease and wax remover. It took off the tape gunk and didn't damage the basecoat at all. You couldn't tell at all on the finished product

Chop
 

rex

New member
If you're using HOK I think prep solvent eats the base,check first just to be sure if that's the case.
 
Top