metallic paint problem

[Envious Interiors]

hey guys, i recently painted a friends toyota pickup a metallic turquoise and black 2 tone setup. I have a cheap gun with a 1.5mm tip and a medium sized plastic cup. I sprayed his bed, and it turned out pretty descent. I cleared and wetsanded and buffed, and it looks pretty good. Now, i spent a lot of time prepping his cab. It was smoother than a babys butt before i sprayed. i tacked, and damp ragged and all that stuff and had water on the floor. So i sprayed my tack coat, and then my wet coat. in some areas, the turquoise went black? like a spotty black. This happened more on the doors than anything. I tried to put some more on, but it didnt do a whole lot. So, my buddy just told me to clear it. i cleared, wetsanded and buffed and put it all together. now it shines nicely, but still has the black stuff. what could be the cause of this black? and how can i keep it from happening again. i want to buy a new gun, but dont have the extra cash for one yet. unless anyone has one they want to sell?

anyways, thanks for your help

 

[Austin]

What your describing sounds like mottling. This happens on metallic colors, when the base is put on too heavy (or if your gun doesn't have a even spray patern). Some colors mottle very easy. Spray technique and light cross coats will help reduce this from happening. Unfortunately, since you've cleared it the only way to fix it would be to re-paint.
Hope this helps alittle.
Austin

 

[Envious Interiors]

allrighty, i just wanted to know how it happened. im buying an Iwata LPH 400 tomorrow, unless any of you painters have any other suggestions on a gun. thanks for the help

 

[Austin]

I'm considering the 400 myself, I've heard good things about it. I currently use a SATA NR 95 for base coats and a SATA 2000 for clear coat, plus a SATA Mini Jet for smaller projects (Iwata air-brush as well) . I've used the SATA RP and I must say I like it more than my 2000.
Austin

 

[BonesFX]

The molting problem you're having can be caused by a few problems.

When you mix it with interclear or topcoat clear would be where the first mistake can be made by adding to much pearl to the solution - If there is too much in the clear it won't laydown right - Use a dry pearl mixing guide - (see HOK tech sheet) these ratios can be played with a little, but they're a good start

When applying pearls to a dark surface, wet coats aren't always the best way to go, I try to shoot them dry, with four coats (unless its a ghost job) and then I use four different spraying directions - Horizontal - Vertical - Diagnol both ways - this almost guaranties that your spray pattern will not be repeated, giving you a more diffused series of coats of pearl.

The most commen mistake with dry pearls is to add way too much to the clear and then hammer it on to the object being sprayed - and the bigger the object the harder it is to get right --- Bones!~

 

[rex]

You'll love the 400,I just played with one the last 2 days-awesome for basecoat.I don't remember if I had the 1.2 or 1.4 for base but the 1.2 pulverizes clear too much.Put about 18lbs in the gun and play +/-2 lbs.It sounds wierd because they use such little pressure to operate but this thing atomizes and will throw a huge perfect pattern.I ended up choking it down 1/2 way with DBC and it broke it up so well 2 coats of base covered easily and I had to strengthen the candy up a little.I'll have one soon.