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Motorcycle Frame Molding
- Thread starter Art
- Start date
Art,I molded a frame and I sandblasted the welds,used a wire welder to fill the sides of the welds,then ground smooth,I only used enough heat to melt the wire.you can knock down the high spots from the factory but,don't get carried away,you will weaken it if you get too close.I used some red glazing compound to fill the little pits,worked great.
Bondo's fine if done right but spend the $ for good mud,not that old cheap hevyweight stuff.Polyputty is fine but I keep it to about 1/8" thickness.I've seen mud used up to 1/2" thick molding in necks and mounting blocks without a prob.I do have to say that when it gets this thick you want to be doing a rubbermount or milder motored solid mount.Those big inchers can shake anything loose if they aren't balanced but that's another discussion.Don't mud over steel either,DP it first,there is an adhesion difference.
T
TAZ
Guest
Art,
I think he is talking about the "DP" sealers from PPG. You can get them in different color types. Choose one that would give your actual basecoat the best coverage.
I think he is talking about the "DP" sealers from PPG. You can get them in different color types. Choose one that would give your actual basecoat the best coverage.
Hey Art,like Scott said it's PPGs epoxy primer.Some of the best stuff made but it does have quirks.If you'r egoing to start from raw steel you blow a coat of the green (DP40) unreduced over the steel then do oyur bodywork or molding.There's 2 hardners though-401 is the stuff that's 'open' for 3 days and 402 is the fast catalyst that is only 24hrs.If you're within that timeframe you can do anything over it without sanding or scuffing it.I like the 401 but you need to wait close to the end of the cure to work it or it is still gassing out.I'll use the 402 if I want to mud over it the same day and there's no prob,but for the real nice jobs I cut it with 401 and let it sit 2 days before I touch it.Just about anything you put over it will stick 10X better than over bare steel.Most of the colors are good but the green's the best over a bare substrate for the corrosion protection but the white is completely useless unless you're using it for a sealer,which is still a compromize.
H
hrlymnsss
Guest
hey art use some lead its real plyable its on all piller posts & 1/4s i just cut the rear fender on my sportie down the middle 1 1/2" puttin a 180 on and butt welded a piece where the tailight was and down the middle and leaded it all we all know how a sportie shakes & rattles and i didnt want it crackin and im rakin the front and im goin to use lead there too . just a thought to consider
I'm taking a stab in the dark but I think it was HOK's epoxy primer.I haven't used it but don't confuse it with PPGs epoxy because PPGs wont sand nice at all with dry paper.If it wasn't HOK's primer the only other primer I recall that color was Glassurit's,but it was a urethane surfacer so it's best not to cover large areas of bare steel.That bike was painted with HOK so I figure they're staying in the system.
Art,If he spred it,it may have been a glazing with aluminum dust in it instead of talc,it's called Evercoat,metal glaze,it's a polyester finishing and blending putty.It's kind of a final finish over filler or to fill shallow imperfections like in new sheetmeatal.It comes with a blue hardener and turns a light green when mixed.It goes on really smooth,cures in 20min without an oven and sands real nice.Just my guess.I wish I knew about this stuff when I molded my frame!
T
TAZ
Guest
I personally use 3M's Flowable finishing putty. (part 5824)
Not green in color, but it will get you the same results.
Goes on *very* smooth, and it does flow out to a certain extent.
Not green in color, but it will get you the same results.
Goes on *very* smooth, and it does flow out to a certain extent.
That's probably Ever-Coat of something similar. Its kinda like thin bondo that is used to "skim coat" everything. Its easy to sand and makes bringing everything up to the same level a breeze. After you do your bondo molding (try to do several thin layers of bondo,that will help the vibration problems) skim with Ever-Coat and slick it out.Then prime,sand and paint.Nothing to it (but several days of hellish labor,lol)