I think the probs are more environment and application,but I'm not trying to put you down by any means.A few things could have caused this.This stuff is syrup compared to the older stuff,so you need a modern gun to break it up.I've painted who knows how much with the generic copy guns,but they aren't good for this thick stuff.These high solid products don't flow like the old stuff either.You have to put it on even,almost like you want it to look but even is the key.I think this is why it was dry and peely(not wet enough and uneven)but don't feel bad,tanks are tricky because the angle of the surface constantly changes as you try to keep an even overlap.The wrong hardner and reducer can cause probs too.Figure out what temp you want to spray in and get everything to that temp and maintain it as close as possible.Then match up the hardner and reducer.If they gave you cold weather stuff and you really warmed up the garage it will flash quick and not flow much more.I don't know if there is a specific cold hardner like the previous system(I quit production painting a few years ago and only do bikes on the side now,so I'm a little ignorant on the entire line now without looking it up).2042 might suit you better since it's a speed clear and the cold will slow it down some,but I find it's a little brittle for my liking.What are you using specifically for a gun,temperature,reducer,etc?
You do need to keep the overspray and initial curing fumes from settling on it while drying,they will burn and haze out the surface causing gloss dieback,but the texture of the surface-slick or peel-will not change.
[ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: rex ]
