This is different but not a big deal.Actually The 1000 sanding was a good idea to remove lettering and any texture.At that point I'd have used a plastic primer/adhesion promoter if you're not using model paint like Testors,but that's hard to find in spray cans.Unless you had to use 2 coats over the galv. metal I'd have just used 1 unless it was really thin.If these can't be painted over directly I'd spay a coat of primer over it to scuff before the paint.Painting it's the fun part.You want to avoid sanding the color,and you can't metalics or pearls without screwing them up.If you can clear at any time you can spray a color and tape n spray the next when it's dry enough.If it must be recoated within a short period of time it'll be better to lay a coat or 2 of clear and let it dry.Instead of sanding it use a grey scotchbrite lightly to scuff it with soapy water.If the paint is on the soft side like Testors model paint I'd use a white scuffy.3M's has soap in it so just add water.Rinse it well to remove any soap residue and lay out your next color and repeat.You don't really have to worry about thickness to a degree because it wont be baking in the sun,but it might chip easier with rough handling.I don't know the stuff you're cleaning with,but once you start the paint a lille soapy water and a good rinse should be fine.The clear is going to be personal preference.It's kind of like a car interior.Gloss looks cool but the reflections can be very distracting.You shouldn't have to sand before clear but if it's metalic or pearl let it dry as long as possible so the clear doesn't soften and rearrange or smudge it.I know model clear melts silver bigtime from the few I tried.
need advice with paint job
- Thread starter rex
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Ganther
Guest
Hey thanks for the reply I was hoping to get some advice and the advice you gave was bang on I also went to an auto body supply shop and asked around there as well very similar advice going with a deep metallic blue with red metallic flames fading to a blue or purple. Thanks for the help..
Just wondering you mentioned doing a base color then clear it add my second color then clear it so on and so on did I interpret this right or should I do my base color, 2nd color, 3rd color then clear it.
If anyone has other ideas let me know I am open to all suggestions appreciate the help..
Just wondering you mentioned doing a base color then clear it add my second color then clear it so on and so on did I interpret this right or should I do my base color, 2nd color, 3rd color then clear it.
If anyone has other ideas let me know I am open to all suggestions appreciate the help..
G
Ganther
Guest
O.k. this is a little off topic but same concept for painting I would think.
I am painting my computer case being a hotrod and motorcycle fan I figured what better place to get advice from experts on doing a real nice paint job with possibly flames.
If any one is willing offer advice I would realy appreciate it. Here is what I have done so far.
Please keep in mind this is a computer case and I will be using cans of spray paint (due to lack of tools)
wet sanded case down to a 1000 grit.
Washed with TSP before painting
applied primer for galvanized metal.
allowed 2 days between coats
wet sanded between coats to 1500 grit.
In between each coat I washed with TSP.
Now I am stumped because I will be using spray paint or automotive spray paint along with a clear coat.
I am not sure if I should use a mat paint, high gloss paint or paint with metallic flakes. would Mat or a glossy paint work better or does it matter.
other than metallic paint do I sand the final coat before applying the clear coat.
Do I need to polish it before applying the clear coat.
I am going to be putting some kind of design on the case whether it is flames or not I don't know.
Is there any type of clear coat you would suggest useing for the final stage..
What kind of rubbing compound and polish should I use to get that nice high shine.
Any help or advice would be great, am I even going in the right direction to get a decent finish.
Thanks in advance
I am painting my computer case being a hotrod and motorcycle fan I figured what better place to get advice from experts on doing a real nice paint job with possibly flames.
If any one is willing offer advice I would realy appreciate it. Here is what I have done so far.
Please keep in mind this is a computer case and I will be using cans of spray paint (due to lack of tools)
wet sanded case down to a 1000 grit.
Washed with TSP before painting
applied primer for galvanized metal.
allowed 2 days between coats
wet sanded between coats to 1500 grit.
In between each coat I washed with TSP.
Now I am stumped because I will be using spray paint or automotive spray paint along with a clear coat.
I am not sure if I should use a mat paint, high gloss paint or paint with metallic flakes. would Mat or a glossy paint work better or does it matter.
other than metallic paint do I sand the final coat before applying the clear coat.
Do I need to polish it before applying the clear coat.
I am going to be putting some kind of design on the case whether it is flames or not I don't know.
Is there any type of clear coat you would suggest useing for the final stage..
What kind of rubbing compound and polish should I use to get that nice high shine.
Any help or advice would be great, am I even going in the right direction to get a decent finish.
Thanks in advance
Sorry it took so long to get back.If you're using car paint you can do all of your coloring at one time since you have around 24hrs to recoat without sanding.That 24 is at 70 degees,so if it's 80 or 85 degrees cut that down to 12.If you cant stay in that time frame to lay out another color and spray it,you either have to scuff it (solid color only) and blow another coat on it to continue or clear it all and scuff it when dry to continue.The basecoat or midcoat clear is great for this.Remember too that as you're laying out all these colors and taping that the first color that was applied is when the clock starts.Say you base it blue,then tape off flames and do them,then want another set of flames or something else to be taped and sprayed.The time starts with the blue since it's unrecoated in areas.I think model paint like testors can be done just by putting on a color and letting it dry.I think you don't even have to sand it for the next step.Tape and spray the next,so on and so on.When everything's laid out and colored,clear the whole thing after the last color dried enough.