New at this.. need some advice...

R

radink

Guest
I'm going to paint my bike this winter. I have never done something like this before. I've been reading up on some techniques and such, but I'm not sure where to begin, what type of paint, etc... I have a GSX 600. Any help or advice would be appreciated!!
 

rex

New member
Welcome to the board.I assume the parts are steel but I know the imports use alot of plastic at times too.You can save alot of time and money if the original finish is sound and not thick from a 2 tone or grafix.Just sand it down with 600 wet and go for it.If it is thick or you want to do grafix I prefer to strip it to steel.Paint is kind of personal and individual.I work only with PPGs Concept line of base coat/clear coat.Their single stage (no clear needed for gloss) is very good too and a little cheaper but it tends to chalk and bleach out faster.House of Kolor is good stuff too.If you haven't done it yet,go back through old posts.THere's a ton of info in there that will help you and even glance through some that the topic sounds like it won't pertain to the info you're searching.Sometimes they get off topic and you might find some good stuff in them.Ask if you need help.
 
R

radink

Guest
Thanks Rex.

I read the flame tutorial also. Very handy. Most of the body work is plastic and the tank is metal. Also the seat bar in the back is metal. So will i need 2 different types of paints?

Also i had a question about the tutorial. At what point do you take the tape off? while the flames are wet or dry??
 

rex

New member
You're not going to need different paint but you will need different primers.If you strip the steel I put down a coat of DP40(PPG) epoxy primer for corrosion protection.You should put down a thin coat of etch primer first but it only comes in quarts of primer and activator and will cost alot for the few ounces you'll use.There is a lower grade in spray cans but it really isn't meant for anything but small touchup.You'll be fine without it as long as you DP it right after stripping it.The DP will work on the plastis too but you should put a coat of plastic adhesion primer on first,it's usually clear and thin like water.Take a piece of the plastic with you to the paint store in case there are different primers for different plastics.I think PPGs is a one does them all but can't remember.Sand the plastic with something like 800-1000 though because plastics like to exagerate sanding scratches that paint wont.If you let the DP set overnite you can lightly sand it and paint right over it instead of having to buy a primer sealer too.If you don't strip it just get a sealer to go over the sanded paint on the steel pieces and the plastic primer.Let it dry the recommended time and start painting.You really dont have to seal the paint if it's sound and sanded with 600-800,but you're sealing the plastic stuff so you might as well so if you have a transparent color there wont be a problem.For untaping the flames,etc..,I do it as soon as I can.I try to clean my gun after the last coat and go back to untape it,but I wait until it's flashed off and not still wet like you just sprayed it (which I think is the ideal time but almost impossible to do).You have to be extremely careful though and go slow.If you touch the paint it's still wet enough to screw up and you have to pull the tape slow so the if you get any paint strings you can control them and they dont fall over on the paint and ruin the job.Alot of people wait until the color has flashed off or dried really well but I prefer this way because the paint is still wet enough that most of the time the edge will flow out a little and not be such a hard squared off edge.
 
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