new to airbrushing
- Thread starter dlynch
- Start date
hoss
New member
well if i were starting off again here is what i'd get.
Eclipse hp-cs gravity feed airbrush. (iwata)
the LPH 100 touch up gun (iwata)
if you're going to paint bikes
get-
W 400 (iwata) or any good gun for clearcoating.
for base coats and primers a ok cheep gun is an ATD or finishline. these are a good starter gun, but upgrade as soon as $ allows. then you can move it to your primer gun.
right now i have;
iwata hp-c W a .2 needle and a .35 needle
pashee w a .5 needle (works on small flake and stuff)
LPH 50 (for kandi over graphix)(wish i would have gotten the LPH 100-maybe next time)
2 devilbiss GTI's
1 sata primer gun
my ATD for some priming and big flake
i'm going to add a
Iwata Kustom Micron CM or Micron CM-C Plus for fine detail.
Eclipse hp-cs gravity feed airbrush. (iwata)
the LPH 100 touch up gun (iwata)
if you're going to paint bikes
get-
W 400 (iwata) or any good gun for clearcoating.
for base coats and primers a ok cheep gun is an ATD or finishline. these are a good starter gun, but upgrade as soon as $ allows. then you can move it to your primer gun.
right now i have;
iwata hp-c W a .2 needle and a .35 needle
pashee w a .5 needle (works on small flake and stuff)
LPH 50 (for kandi over graphix)(wish i would have gotten the LPH 100-maybe next time)
2 devilbiss GTI's
1 sata primer gun
my ATD for some priming and big flake
i'm going to add a
Iwata Kustom Micron CM or Micron CM-C Plus for fine detail.
can you explain the diffrences in the needle size? also what type of paint, i have painted cars with cromabase paint is it still the same or do you have to reduce it down alot more? i have a 25 gallon air compressure but i think it might be to much, whats a good silent compressure thats not very expensive?
hoss
New member
i use my 80 gal for my air. just put a air regulator on the wall and one on your airbrush hose.
it's a bounch of trial and error stuff in my oppinion. personal choice. some people like to clear w/ 1.3 and others like it bigger????? what ever gives you a good product.
small needle size makes smaller fine line. and your air pressure needs to go down and you'll need to reduce the paint a little more.
House of Kolor suggests reduceing 1:1 and most use med reducer no matter the temp.
I use martin senior's cross fire paint and i always use slow reducer in my airbrush and reduce it between 2:1 and 1:1. depending on the color. i reduce black less 2:1 and white colors 1:1
you just have to play w/ it to see what works and doesn't. like i said, it's what works for you.
my airbrush works between 15-35 psi depending on the detail that i'm looking for. the finer the line, the closer the airbrush to the surface and the less the psi. i switch needles also. a .2 needle w/ 20ish psi for fine line and my .3 w/ 35psi for true fire and some shading.
i like to use my .5 paschee brush for small graphic basecoats. like putting on a harley emblem. then i take my .3 w/ my iwata and do all my artsy stuff on the harley emblem. I'd also use the .5 to spray small flake (silver) around the edge of the flame. i use it where not too much control is needed but and nice consistant fade looks good. i'll also use it to shoot kandi (KK W/ sg100) over some of my small art work.
i use my touch up gun W/ a 1.0 to shoot the base color of my flames or larger graphics. keeps everything atomized well and the edges down, and i use medish reducer for my basecoats. temp has a lot to do w/ this. i might use slow or even fast depending on the temp.
i use my 1.3 for basecoating and clearcoating.
i use my 1.4 for priming/ or 1/64th flake
i use my 1.8 for etching primer.
i don't know if all of this is correct or needed, but like i said earlier. it works for me till i'm more educated and morph my style yet again. always changing never mastering!
good luck!
it's a bounch of trial and error stuff in my oppinion. personal choice. some people like to clear w/ 1.3 and others like it bigger????? what ever gives you a good product.
small needle size makes smaller fine line. and your air pressure needs to go down and you'll need to reduce the paint a little more.
House of Kolor suggests reduceing 1:1 and most use med reducer no matter the temp.
I use martin senior's cross fire paint and i always use slow reducer in my airbrush and reduce it between 2:1 and 1:1. depending on the color. i reduce black less 2:1 and white colors 1:1
you just have to play w/ it to see what works and doesn't. like i said, it's what works for you.
my airbrush works between 15-35 psi depending on the detail that i'm looking for. the finer the line, the closer the airbrush to the surface and the less the psi. i switch needles also. a .2 needle w/ 20ish psi for fine line and my .3 w/ 35psi for true fire and some shading.
i like to use my .5 paschee brush for small graphic basecoats. like putting on a harley emblem. then i take my .3 w/ my iwata and do all my artsy stuff on the harley emblem. I'd also use the .5 to spray small flake (silver) around the edge of the flame. i use it where not too much control is needed but and nice consistant fade looks good. i'll also use it to shoot kandi (KK W/ sg100) over some of my small art work.
i use my touch up gun W/ a 1.0 to shoot the base color of my flames or larger graphics. keeps everything atomized well and the edges down, and i use medish reducer for my basecoats. temp has a lot to do w/ this. i might use slow or even fast depending on the temp.
i use my 1.3 for basecoating and clearcoating.
i use my 1.4 for priming/ or 1/64th flake
i use my 1.8 for etching primer.
i don't know if all of this is correct or needed, but like i said earlier. it works for me till i'm more educated and morph my style yet again. always changing never mastering!
good luck!
hoss
New member
this looks like a good buy for a (know nothing newby like i was)! now i'm a simi know nothing siminewby 
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...mType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=17688&keyword=20491
all it's missing in the airbrush. eclipse hpcs
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...mType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=17688&keyword=20491
all it's missing in the airbrush. eclipse hpcs