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[guest01]

Hey Guys!

I was attempting to spray a test panel to check out the color combos i picked. When i sprayed the primer, it took on an orange peel appearance. Why did this happen and what can i do to prevent it? After spraying the primer, i let it sit for about 4 day before i sprayed the basecolor. I am using HOK Shimrin paint. I applied two coats anf then tried to sand with 1000 grit. As soon as I put the sander to the paint, it took all the paint off. What happened here? Did i try to sand too soon (sonly waited about 1/2 hour)? Any input as to what i did wrong and how to correct it would be great! Thanks!!!

 

[rex]

Could be many reasons for the peel-wrong gun or setup,not enough reducer,air pressure,etc.If it's in primer surfacer it's not a biggie because it gets sanded,but for the sealer up it's not a bit good.You definately sanded the paint too soon,let it sit overnite.Remember if you shoot a metalic without a clearcoat you'll burn off the metallic as you sand and buff it.

 

[guest01]

I've never shot primer that didn't have peel, and I've never sanded base-coat unless there was trash or a mistake in my color. The best way to have a super flat finish is to wet sand and buff your final coat of clear! Any great paint job is wet sanded and buffed!

Also, the only way to not have peel is to have your finish so wet that it flows out completely flat. If you look closely at ALL factory finishes you'll see they have peel! And those are sprayed by robots! Basically, it can't be done with out peel or your so heavy it runs, so don't spray too heavy and wet sand and buff!

If you only had 2 coats of base the color will come off very quickly! So sand your primer don't sand your base and do sand your clear. If I'm going to do much wet sanding I always lay 2 coats, and stay away from your edges with sand paper and buffer, you won't be able to buff certain areas with the machine so keep that in mind, and if your too close to edges or high spots you'll burn your clear so don't sand or buff there!

And finally, if your buffing fresh clear, its very easy to burn so keep it at the lowest setting and don't leave the machine in one place for too long.

Hoe that helps,

Clausen

 

[rex]

Very good points Clausen.On bike parts you can get a glass finish with the exception of the flat sides of the fenders.The rounds or continuous crowns flow out very nice,to the point you only need to nip out a dirt nib instead of sand the whole thing.The aggrevation comes in setting up your gun (or replacing it) to the clear you're using and your style of painting.I could get a nice job using PPG 2001 out of a DeVilbiss MBC,but I had to lay it on and let it flash well like you said.My 3 coats were closer to 4.But,3 coats thru a gravity feed tweaked for it ended up with a little flatter finish in less time since it atomized the clear better than the MBC ever could.Now,if you want it really sweet,6 or 800 down your clear and lay on 2 more.Be careful though because it will run easier since you don't have the base to suck it up and hold it.Being commacozied by a spec of dust will really piss you off because it looks like a sheet of glass and you hate to touch it.I'm rambling now so I'll quit.

 

[guest01]

Thanks Rex, but Im starting to feel a bit out classed. you definately have a lot more experiance than me! haha You've probably forgoten things I haven't even learned yet! hehe

Any way, great info of this board thats for sure!

 

[rex]

By all means don't feel like that.No matter who you are,you learn something new as the days go by.I've been doing this along time,but I'm by no means an expert.Everyone works differently and has their preferences.As long as the finished product comes out the same it doesn't matter how you got there.We should get together,the stuff I forgot maybe you still remember

That's a great saying though,after time the knowlege accumulates and you forget the basics.Sometimes you gotta step back and forget the technical crap.Oh,didn't your Mama teach you flattery will get you nowhere