Novice HOK questions: Kameleon, SG100, mask

[nosto]

First timer, planning to flame a '67 Chevy PU next month.
So, it's practice time!!
Shooting a flat door patch panel, base is Glasurit 55 (red metallic). Added two medium coats of InterClear (SG100) and let it set up for about 1 hour like the HOK P-sheet says. My goal is to use HOK Red-to-Gold KF-01 to try to get a 'ghost' effect, then when the color flips, you'll see the flame in gold.
Trouble is, the 'red' looks almost reddish-purple and really stands out against the red base. No, I haven't added the top clear, yet.

Questions:
1. Will the top clear deastically change the colors?
2. If I use some red KK Kandy over the Kameleon to try and make it more red and more closly match the base, I know it will also redden the gold, but will it have a bad effect on the flip?
3. I waited an hour for the SG-100 to set up, then taped with 3M 1/8" blue tape. When I took the tape off (about 1 hour later), I had very noticeable tape lines. Is there any trick to avoid this? I cleaned the area with wax and grease remover thinking it might be glue, but the lines are definately in the SG-100.
4. This might sound dumb, but I used plain old clear Contact paper as my mask. There's a small hurricane today and I couldn't get out, and had the Contact, so I used it. Left it on for almost 2 hours, it peeled off OK, but left a quite a bit of glue. Just used the W&G remover get rid of that and it still looks OK.

Thanks,

 

[nosto]

OK, maybe I should READ the other posts first, then ask my questions....
I found an answer to my Q#3 about the tape lines. REX, in a post about 'cutting tape' a few days back, answered that light tape lines should disappear after the top clear is applied.
Hope so!!!

Thanks again,

 

[TAZ]

Questions:
1. Will the top clear deastically change the colors?
>>>The clear *will* make the colors more dramatic and stand out more. If you don't like the red "flop" against the red metallic base without clear, don't use it...save your money. The "color shift" paints are quite expensive anyway!
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2. If I use some red KK Kandy over the Kameleon to try and make it more red and more closly match the base, I know it will also redden the gold, but will it have a bad effect on the flip?
>>>Hhmmmm...I wouldn't suggest this. The reds might clash. Don't know the red metallic base you are using. Naahhh...don't do it~!
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3. I waited an hour for the SG-100 to set up, then taped with 3M 1/8" blue tape. When I took the tape off (about 1 hour later), I had very noticeable tape lines. Is there any trick to avoid this? I cleaned the area with wax and grease remover thinking it might be glue, but the lines are definately in the SG-100.
>>>>>I would definitely wait longer. The lines should disappear...Don't know if this is what Rex said (Rex is good...I'm sure he will steeeeer you in the right direction). You will have quite a bit of tape on this before flaming...in fact, I would give it a 1/2 day at least....If I understand you correctly, you sprayed the red, then intercoat, then laid out and masked up the flames.
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4. This might sound dumb, but I used plain old clear Contact paper as my mask. There's a small hurricane today and I couldn't get out, and had the Contact, so I used it. Left it on for almost 2 hours, it peeled off OK, but left a quite a bit of glue. Just used the W&G remover get rid of that and it still looks OK.
>>>I would either use 2" tape and cut the flames out (easy does it!!!), or use "Auto Mask" that you can buy from "Coast Airbrush" (see the links section).
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Here is what I would do :2idea:....just a suggestion, I do not know all the details, as far as your exact base color, and how much you want the flames to stand out, but it does appear you have a red metallic, and you want the flames to stand out but not much. Since you are using "red to gold" HOK, I assume you want gold to stand out the most and you planned on the red to "blend-in" with the red metallic basecoat. My suggestion...spray the red metallic, spray the interclear (let dry quite a while(, then get some "yellow pearl" *toner* from you local auto body supply store. When sprayed over the red, this will have more of a gold effect. I would suggest mixing this with your SG-100 until you get the results you want. I would try 75% yellow pearl to the 25% SG-100 to start (also of course mix reducer with this as well). This will also really depend on what you are spraying with. Keep in mind, you will *not* see any color on the masking tape when you are spraying...so don't use this as a guide. You may have to peel back a small area to compare it to the orig red metallic basecoat.
:2idea:

You may also want to try other pearls, like the violet or blue pearls. You will have to try different ratios to get the effect that you want...
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Good luck to you...be sure and post pics.
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Hey...Glad to see you doing the "demo" panel first....very smart move
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[rex]

Welcome Nosto.I don't think I got into the particulars in that post you mentioned,more of an answer for him (but my memory does suck at times-old age is setting in way too early).Light tape tracks will dissappear but light is a subjective term without seeing it.Ghost tracks is the best I can describe it.A few coats of base and a few of clear will take a while to dry like Scott said,mainly dependant upon the reducer you selected and how wet you put each coat on along with your flash time.Believe it or not if you go a little hotter(slower drying) for the temperature it'll dry quicker.Scott's recommended timeframe is very realistic,you got antsy and were 'into' it weren't you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gifDon't worry if you were,you're not the only one.

 

[nosto]

Scott,

First, thanks for taking your time to answer my questions. I've learned more from your site just by reading the posts (and picking up ideas from your gallery!) than anywhere else.

The red-to-gold is much better when applied very lightly. I did a set of flames with 2 medium coats and it just stood out all the time Yech!; So I did another set using a single light dusting just on the inside edges, sort of an outline effect, and, TA DAH, got what I wanted. (I bought a pint of that Kameleon and so far only used 1/2 ounce!! Sheesh, talk about overestimating!)

I also finished off the tips with a little blue-to-red. I tried to add a 3D effect where they crossed, but it did not come out the way I expected.

I just cleared the test panel and yes the tape lines are gone, YAY!

For my next test piece (my '81 Sporty is still wearing it's original paint, but not for long.), I'll be sure to wait a bit longer for the interclear to dry before I tape. And AutoMask sounds like the right thing to mask with; although the Contact paper works, in a pinch.

Your suggestion about modifying the color with pearl looks like a winner.
Now I get to learn something else new.....

And, I just found out that it's harder to take a decent picture of the flames than it was to paint them!! See attached ugly pic.

 

[nosto]

Rex,

So right...I've been in the garage since 10AM, trying to take notes so I don't forget what I did; short term memory...whats that??
Hmmm...slower reducer dries faster, gotta write that one down, and try it next time. I was using RU310 fast.

It's late and I need a brew.....

 

[rex]

Now you have to understand a few things when I say it speeds the dry time.First is we're in Florida with lots of humidity so that's a main factor.For the most part I'm relating to PPG's Deltron line but I'm sure everyone else's piantline is comparable since humidity falsely speeds up the dry time.If you've ever picked the temp. correct reducer and high metallic or pearl content colors mottle and dry that way requiring 'dusting' to even out you'll understand this.If you blend 2 consecutive temp range reducers or go the next slower for the temp each coat will stay wet to touch for quite a few minutes,appearance wise the gloss will be there for a good few minutes but touch dry is longer.This approach has a few benefits.First is you subconscieously put it on a little thinnr to avoid runs if you normally hose it on.Second is it dries easier because the top stays wet so the reducer can evaporate from the bottom up,using a faster reducer will skin off on top and trap the lower solvents in.It feels dry on top but really isn't.It also leaves it wet long enough to flow some and colors that tend to mottle will arrange their metallic and pearl the way they should be.Between the first and last reason you'll be putting it on thinner per coat and in less coats as long as your gun attomizes well.The thinnest you can make it and get the effect you want the better it is. A pretty good clue is look at your tackrag after you tack it for clearing.There should basically be no color on it.If there is alot of color on it slow it down some.I run no less than 5 degrees slower but go 10 if the humidity is high.You're going to wait a little longer on flash time so it seems it isn't drying faster but in the end picture it is.An expensive test is spray some with the temp correct reducer and some slowed down a few degrees.If you wait say 45minutes and lay tape on both for a while,usually the slowed down one has less tape tracks.If the reducer is from say 70-85,I use it straight up to 75-78 roughly and start blending from there.At 85 I'm running the next slower straight,or real close if the humidity is low.OK,I'm done rambling.